Drink Wisconsibly

A few days ago, I was going through some of my “posts in progress” — drafts I had started but never quite finished. They’re all in different stages of completion. Some may eventually be published, while others will probably never see the light of day.

One draft I stumbled across was titled “Drink Wisconsibly.” To my surprise, it was actually finished — just never published. I have no idea why. I wrote it back in the summer of 2024.

So, here it is: “Drink Wisconsibly.” Enjoy.

Two years ago at Christmas, my oldest daughter and her husband gave me a white T-shirt. Across the front was an outline of the state of Wisconsin with the words Drink Wisconsibly splashed across it. It’s a clever twist on the familiar “Drink Responsibly” tagline from TV commercials, with a nod to the great state of Wisconsin.

If T-shirts aren’t your style the Drink Wisconsibly website offers plenty of other options — ball caps, sweatshirts, beer mittens, lip balm, and more — all featuring the same logo. The site proudly describes Drink Wisconsibly as “Wisconsin’s preeminent lifestyle brand”.

Enjoying a beer wearing my Drink Wisconsibly t-shirt

Wisconsin has long shared a deep and storied connection with beer and the brewing industry. Brewing began in the state in the 1830s, and it didn’t take long for it to become woven into everyday life. According to the Wisconsin Historical Society, during the latter half of the 19th century, “nearly every community had at least one operating brewery,” and breweries were “as much a part of Wisconsin communities as churches and schools.”

By the start of the Civil War in 1861, Wisconsin was home to nearly 160 breweries. That number continued to climb, surpassing 300 by the 1890s.

The remarkable growth of the state’s brewing industry in the 19th century was closely tied to the influx of German immigrants who settled across Wisconsin. They brought with them a deep appreciation for beer — especially lager — along with the skills and expertise needed to brew it. In fact, by the late 19th century, German immigrants dominated the American brewing industry. By 1880, 80.5% of brewers in the United States were either German immigrants or the sons of German immigrants.

According to Mark Louden, Director of the Max Kade Institute for German-American Studies at the University of Wisconsin–Madison, many German immigrants were drawn to Wisconsin by the abundant supply of affordable farmland. By 1900, 34 percent of the state’s population was of German ancestry.

Today, that influence remains strong: 40.5 percent of Wisconsinites claim German heritage. In several counties across the state, more than half of residents trace their ancestry to Germany (see map below).

Several breweries that achieved iconic status among American beer drinkers were founded in Wisconsin — particularly in Milwaukee. Pabst Brewing Company was established in 1844, followed by Jos. A. Schlitz Brewing Company in 1848, and Miller Brewing Company in 1855.

I should add that Old Milwaukee — brewed by Schlitz — was my beer of choice during my doctoral student days at Arizona State University in the late 1980s (by then, the brand had been acquired by Schlitz Brewing Company of Detroit, Michigan).

By 1914, brewing had become Wisconsin’s fifth largest industry. Given this long and storied history of beer production, Dr. Robin Shepard of the University of Wisconsin–Madison has suggested that the state may be “on a par with other worldly recognized brewing areas such as Bavaria, the Czech Republic and Belgium“.

In addition to beer, Wisconsin was also a significant producer of hops between 1840 and 1910, with production peaking at five million pounds in 1860.

As in many other states, Wisconsin was home to a strong and active temperance movement. During the latter half of the 19th century, lawmakers passed numerous measures aimed at curbing excessive drinking. For instance, an 1849 law held tavern owners “responsible for any costs associated with supporting drunkards”, reflecting growing concern about alcohol’s social impact.

The advent of Prohibition (1920–1933) posed serious challenges for Wisconsin’s breweries. Many were forced to close their doors permanently, while others managed to survive by pivoting to alternative products such as soft drinks, ice cream, and cheese. For ordinary citizens, bootlegging and homebrewing became key sources of beer during those dry years.

There is little doubt that Wisconsinites love their beer. One writer describes Milwaukee’s relationship with beer as a “liquid romance”, observing that “drinking infiltrates almost every social activity.” Another points to the state’s “enduring love of dairy, beer and sausage”, neatly capturing a defining trio of Wisconsin culture.

That affection is woven into the state’s identity. Wisconsin’s only Major League Baseball team, the Milwaukee Brewers, proudly carries the brewing tradition in its name. Milwaukee is also home to the Museum of Beer and Brewing, celebrating the city’s rich brewing heritage.

Today, Wisconsin boasts a thriving craft beer scene, with 266 breweries across the state. In 2023, it ranked 6th in the nation for the number of breweries per 100,000 adults of legal drinking age — further proof that the state’s love affair with beer is alive and well.

According to data from County Health Rankings & Roadmaps, reported by 24/7 Wall St. in 2022, Wisconsin was ranked the drunkest state in America, with 25.2 percent of adult residents reporting excessive drinking. The same dataset revealed that six of the ten drunkest cities in the country were located in Wisconsin — with Appleton claiming the number one spot.

A 2019 report from the University of Wisconsin Population Health Institute found that, across every age group, Wisconsin residents exceeded the national average for binge drinking. The study defined binge drinking as consuming five or more drinks per occasion for men and four or more for women.

Among those who engage in binge drinking, Wisconsinites average 4.1 binge drinking episodes per month — roughly once a week.

It is worth noting that, in terms of per capita alcohol consumption, Wisconsin ranks 8th among the 50 states and the District of Columbia (with New Hampshire holding the top spot). However, when it comes to the rate of excessive drinking, Wisconsin ranks first.

Excessive drinking, unfortunately, contributes to alcohol-related deaths. The graph below illustrates that the total number of alcohol-induced deaths in Wisconsin (excluding automobile accidents) rose steadily from 1999 to 2021.

Source: WisconsinWatch.org.

I, along with other academics, have written about the benefits of moderate alcohol consumption – specially in social settings—while also cautioning against the dangers of excessDrink Wisconsibly is a brilliantly clever twist on the familiar advice to Drink Responsibly.

Wisconsin boasts a rich brewing history and a thriving community of creative modern craft breweries. So why not do both? Let’s drink Wisconsibly—savoring the state’s fantastic beers—while also drinking responsibly, enjoying them in moderation with friends. In other words: Drink Wisconsibly, Responsibly.

Solo Drinking

“No. Shirts, No Shoes, No Service” is a sign occasionally seen outside restaurants, stores, and other business establishments. According to Dave Roos, writing for Howstuffworks.com, these signs trace their origins to the counterculture movement of the 1960s and 1970s when businesses sought to keep “long-haired, tie-dyed, barefooted hippies” out of their establishments. When we see such signs today most of us rarely raise an eyebrow.

Eyebrows have been raised, however, at the rather unusual admissions policy of the Alibi Cocktail & Karaoke Bar in the town of Altrincham, England. The sign at the entrance is unequivocal – after 9pm single unaccompanied adults will not be allowed to enter. In other words, if you fancy going into Alibi by yourself for a couple of drinks after 9pm you are out of luck.

The sign outside the Alibi Cocktail & Karaoke Bar in Altrincham prohibits unaccompanied adults after 9pm.

While the policy has been in place since the bar opened in 2022 it seems that it is only recently that it has received media attention, both in the UK and overseas. In an interview with the BBC, owner Carl Peters said that the policy was designed to “mitigate risk” and “protect his customers” from being “mithered” by solo drinkers. The risk being mitigated apparently is the possibility that a solo customer might have a medical emergency such as a seizure. If they are part of a group the likelihood is that a member of the group may know something about the individual’s medical history, know if there is a family member they can call, or take care of them in some other fashion. I am not quite sure what happens if a solo drinker should happen to experience such an event before 9pm. It seems a rather obtuse justification for the said policy. Yet if the rule has been in place since the bar first opened, one is left to wonder whether he managed or owned another venue where this proved to be a problem. In any event, it is his bar and, unless he violates the UK’s Equality Act, he has the right to deny entry to anyone he chooses.

The second reason Mr, Clark gives for denying entry to solo drinkers after 9pm is a fear that other customers may be “mithered” by them. Mithered – now there’s a great word. Mither is a word in common use in northern England . When used as a verb it means to pester or annoy. While its origins are uncertain, it may be derived from 17th century Welsh. So Mr. Clark is worried about single drinkers pestering his patrons who are there as part of a group. As with the issue of solo drinkers potentially having a medical emergency this seems a rather bizarre reason for denying them entry. Again, it is possible that Mr. Clark has had past instances of this being a problem. As noted by Gary Timmons of The Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) organization, bar owners are in the best position to “judge what’s best for both their business, staff, and customers” and that it is up to each establishment to “establish rules which reflect their clientele”.

Bar employees at other pubs in the Greater Manchester region (where Alibi is located) are somewhat bemused by Alibi’s admission policy. Mike Ramsden, manager at Tariff and Dale Bar and Restaurant, noted that single customers were very common in his bar and that he could “see no reason why a single person would be an issue.” Indeed, dropping in alone for a drink, he noted, is entirely normal. As he explained, “there are a lot of places around here where people come in, sit at the bar by themselves, and chat with the bartenders.”

Christopher Rawlinson, general manager at The Salmon of Knowledge pub noted that pubs and bars are designed for people to gather and meet other people. He went on to say that, “It’s the blokes on their own that keep this industry ticking over. We have plenty of customers who come in alone, some with their dogs, some to watch sport.”

Mr. Rawlinson’s remark about bars as places of gathering prompted me to reflect on the role that pubs and bars play as Third Places. The term Third Place was coined by the urban sociologist Ray Oldenburg in the early 1980s. Oldenburg defined Third Places as “nothing more than informal public gathering places”. Writing for the Brookings Institution Stuart M. Butler and Carmen characterize them as places where we “exchange ideas, have a good time, and build relationships”, while Michael Hickey refers to them as “the living room of society”. Central to Oldenburg’s conception is that Third Places should be inclusive and accessible: no one, in principle, should be excluded. While pubs and bars do impose certain restrictions—most notably age requirements—I am not aware of any that deny entry simply because an individual is not part of a group.

From my perspective, Alibi’s entry restrictions violate both the spirit and intent of Oldenburg’s concept of the Third Place, and that is regrettable. Third Places such as pubs and bars play an important role in modern societies, not least in helping to combat loneliness. Loneliness has become a significant societal problem both in the UK and other countries, with the U.S. Surgeon General characterizing it as an epidemic. A 2024 report by the UK Government found that 7% of people in England (approximately 3.1 million people) said they felt lonely often or always, while British Red Cross estimate the number at 9 million. The not-for-profit Campaign to End Loneliness note that “pubs are important places encouraging vital social connections and interactions“, while a 2018 report by the Royal Society for Public Health emphasized the role that British pubs play as community Third Places. Policies that exclude individuals simply for arriving alone risk undermining this social function and, in doing so, diminish the broader public value these spaces can provide.

In a recent report titled “Open Arms: The Role of Pubs in Tackling Loneliness” Thomas Thurnell-Read, a sociologist at Loughborough University in the UK, wrote:

Above all, pubs must feel inclusive and welcoming. Across the research, the most prominent examples of pubs playing a social role in their local communities tended to be those that catered to a range of customers and made people feel welcome and valued.

In his report Dr. Thurnell-Read provides some examples of pubs that go out of their way to cater to single drinkers. One example he cites is a pub in the southeast of England which had created “Join Me’ cards. Customers can place these on their table indicating that they were amenable to being joined in conversation. Staff members were also encouraged to go out of their way to engage with these customers.

The not-for-profit Pub is The Hub organization recognizes the important role pubs can play in reducing loneliness. Its “Join Inn – Last Orders for Loneliness” campaign includes a practical guide to help pub owners and staff understand loneliness, its effects, and simple actions they can take to make a meaningful difference.

Sadly, the number of British pubs is declining. Between 2000 and 2024 the number of pubs in the UK fell by 26.2% from ~61,000 to ~45,000., with a further 540 closures forecast for 2026.Inflation, higher taxes on alcohol and hikes in wage and energy costs have all contributed to this decrease.

As someone who does a fair amount of solo travel, I often find myself going to bars and having a drink on my own. While I enjoy spending time at a bar with friends, I am equally comfortable drinking solo. In a recent article on solo drinkers, Javier Porter suggests that it can be “a liberating and enjoyable experience . . . a time for self-reflection and introspection . . . to escape the pressures of social expectations and simply enjoy their own company”. I have to say that Mr. Porter’s words resonate with me. When I go to a bar by myself, any conversation I have is usually with the bartender. I am not one to start conversations with strangers, although I am happy to engage in one if someone else instiates it.

On a recent journey home from Košice, Slovakia, I overnighted at the Sheraton Hotel at Amsterdam’s Schiphol Airport. After checking in, I went down to the hotel bar for a few beers. When I’m drinking solo, I typically sit at the bar, and this time was no exception. I was the only person there until about halfway through my first Heineken, when someone else took a seat a few stools away. He made an offhand comment about something or other, and before long we were engaged in an easy, enjoyable conversation. He turned out to be from Texas and was en route to India on business.

Soon after, two others arrived and joined our conversation – a retiree from Florida and a younger woman from California – as did our bartender, Michael. The conversation quickly broadened, moving across a wide range of topics and turning what began as a quiet beer into an unexpectedly memorable evening of shared stories and conversation.

My new-found drinking buddies, plus Michael the bartender (far left), while stopping over in Amsterdam on my way back from Kosice, Slovakia last summer

It seems a great pity that, at a time when the number of pubs is declining and loneliness is increasingly recognized as a social problem, one particular pub would adopt a policy that does not welcome solo drinkers after 9:00 p.m. Admittedly, it is only a single establishment, and the policy applies only during the later evening hours. Still, the message it sends feels at odds with the role that pubs and bars have long played as inclusive social spaces.

Further Reading:

Oldenburg, Ramon and Dennis. 1982. The third place. Qualitative Sociology, Volume 5, Pages 265–284.

Thurnell-Read, Thomas. Open Arms: The Role of Pubs in Tackling Loneliness. Loughborough University.

2025 Year In Review

It is a tradition that my last blog entry of the year reflect upon the previous twelve months with a photo gallery of the breweries I visited during that period. In 2026, I visited a total of 35 breweries- 15in my home state of Ohio, 14 in other states, and 6 outside of the United States. The 14 breweries I visited in other states were located in California, Colorado, Michigan, Pennsylvania, and Utah, while those outside of the United States were in Armenia, Canada, Poland, and Slovakia. Of the 34 breweries 21 were ones I had visited before and 14 were first time visits (indicated in bold in the list below).

As per tradition, following the list below, I have included one photograph from each of the breweries I visited. Enjoy.

OHIO (15)

  • 60cc Brewing, Toledo, OH
  • BJ’s Restaurant & Brewhouse, Toledo, OH
  • CLAG Brewing Co. Sandusky, OH
  • Great Black Swamp Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
  • Hoptometry Brewing, Tiffin, OH
  • Inside the Five Brewing Company, Sylvania, OH
  • Inside The Five Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
  • Inside the Five Brewing Co., Perrysburg, OH
  • Jackie O’s Pub and Brewery, Athens, OH
  • Maumee Bay Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
  • Old Dog Alehouse & Brewery, Delaware, OH
  • Patron Saints Brewery, Toledo, OH
  • Quenched & Tempered Brewing Co. Toledo, OH
  • The Laird Arcade Brewery, Tiffin, OH
  • Voodoo Brewing Company, Toledo OH

REST OF UNITED STATES (14)

  • Bell’s Eccentric Cafe, Kalamazoo, MI
  • Blind Lady Ale House, San Diego, CA
  • Dark Horse Brewing Company, Marshall, MI
  • Gordon Biersch Brewing Company, Romulus, MI (Airport Location)
  • Harland Beer Co., San Diego, CA (Bay Park Location)
  • Red Rock Brewery, Salt Lake City, UT (Airport Location)
  • New Holland Brewing Co., Battle Creek, MI
  • North Park Beer Co., San Diego, CA (North Park Location)
  • Pavlov’s Brewing Co., Temperance, MI
  • San Diego Tap Room, San Diego, CA
  • Seek Beer Co., San Diego, CA
  • Stone Brewing, San Diego, CA (Airport Location)
  • Vault Brewing Company, Yardley, PA
  • Woods Boss Brewing Company, Denver, CO

INTERNATIONAL (6)

  • Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan, Armenia
  • Brovaria, Poznan, Poland
  • Pivovar Golem, Košice, Slovakia
  • Pivovar Hostinec, Košice, Slovakia
  • Steamworks Brewing Co., Vancouver, Canada
  • Yaletown Brewing Company, Vancouver, Canada
60cc Brewing, Toledo, OH
Beer Academy Ethnograph, Yerevan, Armenia
Bell’s Eccentric Cafe, Kalamazoo, MI
BJ’s Restaurant and Brewhouse, Toledo, OH
Blind Lady Ale House, San Diego, CA
Brovaria, Poznan, Poland
CLAG Brewing Co., Sandusky, OH
Dark Horse Brewing Company, Marshall, MI
Gordon Biersch Brewing Company, Romulus, MI (Airport Location)
Great Black Swamp Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
Harland Beer Co., San Diego, CA (Bay Park Location)
Hoptometry Brewing, Tiffin, OH
Inside The Five Brewing Co., Sylvania, OH
Inside The Five Brewing Co., Perrysburg, OH
Inside The Five Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
Jackie O’s Pub and Brewery, Athens, OH
Maumee Bay Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
New Holland Brewing Co., Battle Creek, MI
North Park Beer Co., San Diego, CA (North Park Location)
Old Dog Alehouse & Brewery, Delaware, OH
Patron Saints Brewery, Toledo, OH
Pavlov’s Brewing Co., Temperance, MI
Pivovar Golem, Košice, Slovakia
Pivovar Hostinec, Košice, Slovakia
Quenched & Tempered Brewing Co. Toledo, OH
Red Rock Brewery, Salt Lake City, UT (Airport Location)
San Diego Tap Room, San Diego, CA
Seek Beer Co., San Diego, CA
Steamworks Brewing Company, Vancouver, Canada
Stone Brewing, San Diego, California (Airport Location)
The Laird Arcade Brewery, Tiffin, OH
Vault Brewing Company, Yardley, PA
Woods Boss Brewing Company, Denver, CO
Yaletown Brewing Company, Vancouver, Canada
Voodoo Brewing Company, Toledo, OH

Welcome to Wrexham (Lager)

I have a deep passion for football—known as soccer here in the United States. Most of that passion is devoted to Glasgow Celtic, the Scottish club I’ve supported avidly since I was seven years old. Thanks to the internet and cable television, I can keep up not only with my team but with the sport more broadly. Beyond watching matches, I occasionally enjoy football documentaries. Two of my favorites are Sunderland ’Til I Die and Welcome to Wrexham. Both series chronicle the challenges faced by the men’s teams of Sunderland and Wrexham as they strive to win enough points to climb the tiers of English football. Interestingly, although Wrexham is based in Wales, its team competes in the English Football League—a legacy of the early 20th century when no Welsh league existed. As a result, Wrexham, along with Cardiff City, Newport County, and Swansea City, was invited to play in English League.

Of the two documentaries, Welcome to Wrexham has received the most publicity. This is in large thanks to the fact that, back in 2021 actors Ryan Reynolds and Rob McElhenney became the co-owners of the club. Both have a starring role in Welcome to Wrexham. The takeover has been hugely successful and over a four-year period (2021-2025) the club gained three successive promotions and moved from the fifth to the second tier of the English football pyramid.

But it’s not just the local football team that Reynolds and McElhenney invested in. They also, along with the Allyn family of Skaneateles, NY, became majority co-owners of a local brewery, Wrexham Lager Beer Co., in 2024. It is a brewery with an interesting history. It was founded In 1882 by two German Immigrants, Ivan Levinstein and Otto Isler. During the 1900s, Wrexham Lager was exported worldwide, finding markets in places as far away as Australia, India, and the Americas. Such was the popularity of Wrexham Lager during the early 20th century that it was available to passengers on the ill-fated Titanic.

In 2000, due to declining demand, the brewery closed its doors. The then owners of the brewery, Carlsberg-Tetley, continued to produce the Lager at a brewery in Blackburn in England. They did so until 2002 when production ceased completely. In 2011, a local family, the Roberts, decided to revive the brand and brew Wrexham Lager in a newly constructed microbrewery. Along with Reynolds, McElhenny, and the Allyn family, the Roberts remain co-owners of the brewery.

Long before Reynolds’s and McElhenney invested in either the football club or the brewery there was a strong connection between the club’s fans and Wrexham Lager. It was, indeed, a staple brew for many Wrexham fans, so much so that the Lager got its own chant. To the tune of the Welsh hymn Bread of Heaven, the chant goes:

Wrexham Lager, Wrexham Lager

Feed me ’til I want no more (want no more),

Feed me ’til I want no more..

As both a football fan and a beer enthusiast, I was familiar with Wrexham Lager and its connection to the local football club—though I had never actually tasted it. That changed a few weeks ago. While browsing the beer section of the dinner menu at a local restaurant, I noticed Wrexham Lager listed among the offerings. At $9 a can, it was pricier than the other craft beers on the menu—likely due in part to the fact that it had traveled all the way from Wrexham to Toledo. Or so I thought.

As I examined the can (as I do with most canned beers that I have for the first time) I noticed that the beer inside was not brewed in Wrexham, but in Normal, IL at Destihl Brewery. Curious about Destihl I visited their website. Established in 2007, in addition to their own line of beers Destihl brew a number of what they call ‘partner beers’. Included in these is Wrexham Lager.

I have to admit, I was a little disappointed by this discovery. One of the things I value most about craft beer is its local character—the way it reflects and connects to a specific place. This sense of place has been widely studied by several geographers, including Scott Taylor Jr. and Robin DiPietro of the University of Houston and the University of South Carolina-Columbia, respectively. In their work, they explore the concept of place-based brands—brands that are defined by their geographic origin and cannot be authentically reproduced elsewhere because of the unique qualities tied to that location.

With respect to Wrexham Lager, the question is simple – can Wrexham Lager be brewed anywhere except Wrexham. Martyn Jones who represented the people of Wrexham as a member of the British Parliament between 1987 and 2010 doesn’t think so. He put it very simply “It isn’t Wrexham Lager if it isn’t brewed in Wrexham.” Before becoming a Member of Parliament, Jones worked in the Wrexham Lager Brewery. In 2020 (when the Lager was being brewed in Blackburn) Jones spearheaded a campaign to bring production of the famous Lager back to Wrexham.

The statement by Martyn Jones gets right to the heart of the question of authenticity. Is the Wrexham Lager that is brewed in Illinois authentic? One might argue that as long as the Lager is brewed using the same ingredients and the same recipe then what’s the big deal? Others, such as Martyn Jones, would suggest otherwise and would argue that where Wrexham Lager is brewed is a big deal.

This is not the first time the issue has been raised with respect to the brewing industry. Back in 2016, a judge found in favor of the plaintiff in a class action lawsuit filed against Anheuser-Busch (A-B). The lawsuit revolved around Beck’s beer. While ostensibly a German beer, Beck’s was owned by Anheuser-Busch InBev. In addition to being brewed in Bremen Germany, since 2012 Beck’s had been brewed in St. Louis, MO. The lawsuit alleged that Anheuser-Busch “misrepresented to consumers that Beck’s Beer is brewed in and imported from Germany”. Plaintiffs alleged “that these beers are in fact domestically brewed but priced as a premium imported beer”.

In a case study of a Scottish craft brewery, David Brown of Heriot-Watt University (UK) examines the challenges the owner faces as he considers expanding beer distribution into England and Wales. Many of the brewery’s products feature names inspired by local landmarks and Scottish idioms, with labels referencing regional issues—such as a nearby nudist colony. As they enter more geographically distant markets, a key question arises: should these local references remain unchanged, or be adapted to make the brand more accessible and transparent to non-local consumers? Selling a beer with a strong sense of place beyond its home region can presents some unique branding challenges.

Wrexham Lager is brewed at Destihl in Normal, IL

The story of Wrexham Lager—and its connection to football, community, and identity—highlights a broader debate about authenticity in an increasingly globalized world. While recipes and branding can travel, the sense of place that defines a product is harder to replicate. For some, brewing Wrexham Lager in Illinois may seem inconsequential, but for others, like Martyn Jones, it strikes at the heart of what makes the beer unique. This tension between tradition and practicality is not new; it echoes similar controversies across the brewing industry, where geographic origin remains a powerful marker of authenticity. Ultimately, whether in football or beer, place matters—not just as a backdrop, but as an integral part of the story we tell and the experiences we value.

Further Reading:

Brown, David M. 2023. Managing neolocalism outside the locale in real ale and craft beer entrepreneurship: The case of Ben Lui Brewery. The International Journal of Entrepreneurship and Innovation.

Taylor, Scott, Jr and Robin DiPietro. 2020. Assessing consumer perceptions of neolocalism: Making a case for microbreweries as place-based brands. Cornell Hospitality Quarterly, Volume 61, Numbr 2, Pages 183–198.

Remembering the Edmund Fitzgerald

Fifty years ago this month the SS Edmund Fitzgerald, a Great Lakes freighter, sank in a violent storm in Lake Superior. None of the twenty-nine crew members survived. At 13,632 tons she was, and still is, the largest ship to have sunk in the Great Lakes. Eleven days before her sinking, during a routine inspection in Toledo, OH the Coast Guard found that some of the hatch covers that sealed the cargo area would not close properly. This, it appears, may have contributed to the Fitzgerald’s sinking. When it sank the Fitzgerald was carrying more than 26,000 tons of iron ore (in the form of taconite pellets) from Superior, WI to Detroit, MI – a journey it had made many times. Four of the crew crewmembers were from Toledo – Ernest M. McSorely (Captain), Eugene W. O’Brien (Wheelsman), William J. Spengler (Watchman), and Robert C. Rafferty (Steward/Cook).

Throughout history the Great Lakes has seen somewhere between an estimated 6,000 to 10,000 shipwrecks. Despite the large numbers, it is the sinking of the Fitzgerald that has remained front and center in the minds of the North American public (or at least those of us fortunate enough to live on or near the Great Lakes). To a large extent, we have the Canadian singer/songwriter Gordon Lightfoot to thank for that. In 1976, Lightfoot released the song “The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald”. For the week of November 20, 1976 (a little over a year after the disaster) the song reached number 1 in Canada on and number 2 on Billboard Top 100 in the United States. According to Scott Bauer, writing for the Associated Press, “Without the song, ‘The Wreck of the Edmund Fitzgerald’ may have been largely forgotten

While Gordon Lightfoot deserves kudos for keeping alive the memory of the Edmund Fitzgerald, a couple of Great Lakes breweries have also contributed. None more so than the aptly named Great Lakes Brewing Company in Cleveland, OH whose Edmund Fitzgerald Porter “is a bittersweet tribute to the legendary freighter’s fallen crew—taken too soon when the gales of November came early”. According the Dan Conway, co-founder of Great Lakes Brewing Company, “ the dark, rich colors and flavors of our porter seem to match the image of iron ore that the Fitz transported through the Great Lakes.” Not surprisingly, Great Lakes Brewing Company honored the 50th anniversary of the freighter’s sinking. On November 10 and 11, 2025 they hosted an event that included an educational presentation and a moment of silent reflection. For every pint of their Porter sold on those two days, the brewery donated one dollar to the Great Lakes Shipwreck Museum in Paradise, MI.

Edmund Fitzgerald Porter by Great Lakes Brewing Company in Cleveland, OH pays tribute to the freighter and the twenty-nine men who died when it sunk

Another brewery, Quenched and Tempered in Toledo, OH also partnered with a local museum, The National Museum of the Great Lakes, to remember and honor the Edmund Fitzgerald. To commemorate the event Brewery owner Ali Drozdowicz and brewmaster Alex Drozdowicz created a one-off beer – a Copper Ale. The beer was given the name “Toledo Express”, one of a number of nicknames given to the Fitzgerald.

Toledo Express Copper Ale brewed by Quenched & Tempered Brewing Company in Toledo, OH commemorates the Edmund Fitzgerald

Toledo brewery, Earnest Brew Works also brewed a special beer as a tribute to the crew of the Fitzgerald. The aptly named ‘Gales of November’ captures the brutal weather conditions that proved fatal to the freighter and its crew. Gales of November is a Blackberry Sour which clocks in at 7.5% ABV.

Gales of November, brewed by Earnest Brew Works in Toledo, OH is a tribute to the twenty-nine men who perished when the Edmund Fitzgerald sank

Naming beers after local landmarks, historical events, or notable figures exemplifies a concept known as neolocalism. Geographer Stephen M. Schnell of Kutztown University defines neolocalism as “the conscious attempt of individuals and groups to establish, rebuild, and cultivate local ties and identities.” In a separate paper co-authored with Joseph S. Reese of Edinboro University, Schnell and Reese argue that many craft breweries actively embrace neolocalism through various strategies—one of the most common being the selection of beer names that reflect connections to the local community. The three beers highlighted here, which commemorate an event deeply rooted in Great Lakes communities such as Cleveland and Toledo, serve as clear illustrations of this practice.

Further Reading:

Schnell, Stephen M. and Joseph S. Reese. 2003. Microbreweries as tools of local identity. Journal of Cultural Geography, Volume 22, Issue 1, Pages 45-69.

Craft Breweries Don’t Need Your Wacky Advice Mr Robichaux

Last month, the New York Times published two pieces focused on the craft brewing industry. The first by Julie Creswell was titled “Craft Breweries Struggle as Sales and Appetites Wane“, while the second by Mark Robichaux was titled “Wacky Labels and Silly Names Are Killing Craft Beer“. Both addressed the current challenges facing the industry. But that’s where the similarities ended. The piece by Ms. Creswell was carefully researched and littered with facts, while that by Mr. Robichaux was, to use his own words, just plain wacky.

In her article, Cresswell presents some of the hard facts regarding the challenges facing America’s craft brewing industry – declining sales, more brewery closings than openings, higher prices for key raw materials such as aluminum and hops, heightened competition, and shifting consumer tastes. The article had interviews with brewery owners, including Nico Freccia of 21st Amendment Brewery in San Francisco, CA and Kim Kavulak of Nebraska Brewing Company in La Vista, NE. In other words, it was a well-sourced piece of journalism.

The piece by Mark Robichaux is a different story. In Mr. Robichaux’s defense, however, it was presented as an “opinion piece”. The writer is clearly a beer drinker having “chased beer across continents and dive bars”. Although an opinion piece, Robichaux’s does identify some of the legitimate challenges facing the industry – declining sales, the impact of remote work, and changing consumer tastes.

But Mr. Robichaux is an optimist – a glass half full guy as he admits – and believes that it is the brewers themselves who hold the key to a bright and vibrant future. As he states, “there are a few simple steps the craft beer industry can take to immediately address its downturn”.

First, it must” abandon” its “obsession” with IPAs and “bring back the pilsner, the amber, the pale ale, or reinvent the lager”. While bemoaning the dominance of IPAs, Mr. Robichaux also takes a swipe at high ABV (Alcohol by Volume) beers. IPAs are very popular among craft beer drinkers, accounting for 49.4% of off-premise craft beer sales in 2024. Yes, that’s a lot of IPA and it does suggest that there is still plenty of consumer demand for this hop forward style. If, on the other hand, you don’t like IPAs, or want a break from them, there are plenty of other styles to choose from. Walk into most craft breweries and there is plenty of choice – Brown Ales, Lagers, Saisons, etc. I have never went to a craft brewery and felt that there were never enough non-IPAs from which to choose. So I’m not quite sure what Mr. Robichaux‘s beef is with IPAs.

Second, Mr. Robichaux lodges a complaint about the high alcohol by volume beers that some craft breweries produce. Well, if you don’t like them don’t drink them – it’s as simple as that as far as I am concerned. And, as with beer styles, there are plenty of lower ABV beers to choose from when you visit a craft brewery.

Goldwater Brewing in Scottsdale, AZ offer a variety of beer styles at different strengths

Third, Mr. Robichaux suggests that some craft brewers have gone too far with beer names and labels. The industry, he claims, “need smarter labels”. Beer names such as “Sour Me Unicorn Farts” and “Hopportunity Knocks” are a step too far for Mr. Robichaux. Beer labels should “tell drinkers what’s inside”, what the beer tastes likes, and whether the prospective buyer will like the beer or not. Yes, some of the beer labels can be a little over the top, especially those that veer towards the psychedelic. But I’ve never had any problem finding the information I need – brewery name, beer style, the ABV, and IBUs. As for what the beer tastes like. Well, that’s part of the fun of drinking craft beer – trying a beer you have never had before. and then forming your own opinion of it. We all have different palates after all, and a beer that Mr. Robichaux enjoys may be an anathema to me.

Most craft beers such as this Copper Ale from Quenched and Tempered Brewing Company in Toledo, OH provide information on ABV and IBUs.

Finally, Mr. Robichaux makes a plea for craft brewers to “ditch the tallboys and four-packs” and reinstate six-packs as the standard to-go offering in craft breweries. For those of you unfamiliar with tallboys, they are 16-ounce cans that are typically sold as four-packs. He claims, without any evidence I may add, that tallboy four packs represent a sleight of hand on the part of craft breweries as the contain less beer than six-packs (64 ounces vs 72 ounces) and therefore offer an “illusion of value”. On top of that Mr. Robichaux notes that by the time he is halfway through a tallboy it is warm and flat. I can’t say that this is a problem I, nor any of my tallboy drinking friends, have experienced. If you are concerned about it becoming too warm, stick the partially empty can into the refrigerator and grab it when your glass needs refilled. I hope Mr. Robichaux is decanting his tallboys into a glass and not drinking them straight from the can.

In closing, I’d suggest that Mr. Robichaux fails to give sufficient credit to craft brewers when it comes to business acumen. One of the hallmarks of the craft brewing industry is the ability of the brewers to respond to both existing and changing consumer preferences. I was reminded of that in a recent visit to Seek Beer Co. in San Diego, CA. When I was there Seek had about a dozen different beers on offer, including a Vienna Lager, a Coffee Stout, a Fruited Sour, a West Coast IPA, and a Hazy IPA. Yes, they brewed IPAs, but they brewed plenty of other good stuff as well. Second, all but one of the beers available (an Imperial CoffeeStout) had ABVs of under 7%. I asked owner Dave Ohmer about this, and he said that this simply reflected market demand. Higher ABV beers had not been selling fast enough. This preference for lower ABV beers (although many would consider 6.9% to be quite high; its relative guess) is consistent with a broad market shift towards lower alcohol beers that has been observed. My point here is that craft brewers don’t need Mr. Robichaux to tell them what beer to brew, what containers to put it in, or what labels they should put on their cans. They are quite capable of meeting the market where it’s at and brewing accordingly.

Dave Ohmer of Seek Beer Co. in San Diego, CA is cognizant of the types of beer that his customers want him to brew

Beer can chicken, Pringles, and Miller Lite

On a recent visit to my local supermarket, I purchased a can of Pringles potato crisps (according to the Pringles website they are crisps not chips). Although I prefer Stax, I opted for a can of Pringles this particular time. My purchase – a container of Miller Lite Beer Can Chicken flavor Pringles. As a beer drinker, how could I resist? According to the manufacturer, “each stackable crisp delivers the savory taste of roasted beer can chicken and a hint of Miller Lite beer for a mouthwatering, grill-inspired snack”, while the company’s April press release announcing the launch of the product notes that the snack “deliciously combines the flavor of savory roasted chicken complete with notes of garlic and onion with the authentic flavor of the Original Light Beer.”

Beer can chicken flavor Pringles

For those of you unfamiliar with Beer Can Chicken, it is essentially a method for barbecuing a whole chicken, in which the chicken is balanced on a partially filled can of beer. The upright position in which the chicken is cooked allows fat to drain away. This results in a crispy skin, while the beer contributes to a moist chicken.

Beer can chicken

The collaboration between the manufacturers of Pringles and Miller Lite is an example of what is called co-branding (sometimes called cross-branding). In a paper published in the International Journal of Consumer Studies, Ceyda Paydas Turan of the University of Surrey in England, defined co-branding as “a marketing strategy in which two or more brands are presented simultaneously to the consumer as one product to create a sum of brand assets, that is greater than that of the individual brands” Turan goes on to state that “the purpose of forming a co-brand is to create synergies, boost awareness and enhance the value of the brands involved by leveraging each brand through the transfer of associations from one brand to the other and differentiating them from the competition.” Put more simply, co-branding allows companies to tap into each other’s customer base, thus raising awareness of each brand to a potentially new audience. Enhanced customer awareness should result in increased sales.

Co-branding is quite common. For example, for many years American Express has teamed up with Delta Airlines to offer their customers the Delta Sky Miles American Express card. Earlier this year, Jackson Family Wines partnered with the National Basketball Association to co-brand three wines from its Kendall-Jackson range. Also, earlier this year, Uber entered into a co-branding partnership with Gemini Trains, one of the companies offering train service between the United Kingdom and France via the Channel Tunnel.

While many co-branding partnerships are successful and reap benefits for the companies involved, there have been some high-profile failures. Take the co-branding partnership between Lego and Shell. The benefits to both were obvious. Lego gas stations, trucks, and racing cars bearing the Shell logo put the brand in front of both current (parents) and future (children) drivers, while the toymaker’s Shell-branded products were available for sale at the oil giant’s gas stations in over two dozen countries. As a result of a campaign by Greenpeace, however, in which the environmental activist group argued that it was inappropriate for a children’s toy maker to partner with an oil corporation, Lego made the decision in 2014 to end its partnership with Shell.

One of the ways to measure the success of a co-branding initiative is how consumers judge and evaluate the co-branded product. At the time of writing, consumers gave the Miller Lite Beer Can Chicken a score of 3.4/5, with 52% recommending the product. Of the 40 reviewers, 19 gave it 5 stars, while 12 gave it 1 star. With 31 of the 40 reviews being either 1 or 5 stars, it suggests that consumers either loved the product or hated it.

Consumer reviews reflected this range of opinion, ranging from:

“I think they’re actually very good, like the flavor and the minimal amount of saltiness. Like not overpowering in any way but a solid, good flavor”,

“No idea who said this was anywhere near beer chicken, but it’s not. If La Croix made chips, it would be this. Severely lacking in accuracy and flavor profile as advertised.”

Interestingly, on the back of the can there is a statement that declares that the “product does not contain alcohol”. Despite this fact, an additional statement notes that “this licensed product is intended for adults of legal drinking age”.

Beer can chicken Pringles – does not contain alcohol; intended for adults of legal drinking age

Occasionally, when doing research for one of my blog entries, I end up down an internet rabbit hole. This happened on this particular occasion. So, I want to shift gears a little and say a few words about the design of the iconic Pringles can itself. It was co-invented by Fredric J. Baur and Harold Kenneth Hawley, organic chemists and food storage scientists who worked for Procter and Gamble (P&G) the Cincinnati-based producer of Pringles. Baur was born in Toledo, OH – my current city of residence – on July 14, 1918. He attended and graduated from The University of Toledo – my current place of employment – before going to The Ohio State University where he completed both a master’s and PhD in organic chemistry. Baur started working for P&G in the late 1940s, retiring in the early 1980s. In 1966, Baur and Hawley applied for a patent for the can they had designed to hold Pringles. Their patent was approved in 1970.

Fredric Baur, co-inventor of the Pringles can
Baur and Hawley’s patent for the Pringles can was approved in 1970

Bauer died in Cincinnati, OH on May 2008 at the age of 89. At his request, some of his ashes were deposited in a Pringles can and then buried. As I reflected on Baur’s ashes being pIaced in a Pringles can a thought crossed my mind – did the suburban Cincinnati funeral home responsible for handling Fredric Baur’s funeral miss out on a great co-branding opportunity?


Further Reading:

Turkmen, Ceyda Paydas. 2021. Successful drivers of co-branding: A meta-analysis. International Journal of Consumer Studies, Volume 45, Issue 4, Pages 911-936.

Una Cerveza, Por Favor.

Thanks to President Trump the topic of international trade has been on the minds of a lot of folks recently. Per his campaign promise, the President has hiked tariffs on goods imported from countries near and far. This includes our southern neighbor, Mexico. At the time of writing, imports from Mexico are subject to a 25% tariff. Beer, of course, is a major Mexican export to the United States. I am not an international trade expert, however, so I am not going to use this blog entry to examine the impact of the President’s tariffs on the price and sales of Mexican beer imported into the United States. Besides, per this piece in the Mexico News Daily, the whole issue of beer tariffs is more nuanced than meets the eye. Rather, I want to use it to talk a little about the history and current status of the Mexican brewing industry. It is a topic that I actually became interested in and was working on quite some time before the November 2024 elections in the United States.

While barley and wheat-based beers were introduced into Mexico by the Spanish in the 16th century, indigenous Mayans and Aztecs were already making a type of beer using corn, water, and occasionally honey. Despite this early beer production, the indigenous inhabitants exhibited a preference for drinks such as pulque, mezcal, and tequila which were derived from the native agave plant, and it would be several centuries before beer became a mainstream beverage.

Indeed, it was not until the late 19th century, beer can be said to start on its path to popularity as wealthier segments of society discovered the beverage. An 1890 report published by the U.S. Department of State described beer in Mexico as an “aristocratic drink” consumed primarily by wealthy Mexicans, Americans, and Europeans living in large cities and northern states bordering the U.S. According to Steven B. Bunker in a paper published in the journal Mexican Studies/Estudios Mexicanos the late 19th century was a period of modernization in Mexico, and beer was one of a number of products marketed as delivering an “ideal lifestyle” and being indicative of “social success”. During this period much of the beer consumed in Mexico was imported from Germany and the United States, with domestic production limited to a handful of small-scale breweries owned and operated primarily by German immigrants.

Concerned about the volume of imported beer, the Mexican government imposed high duties on bottled beer imported from the United States. These import duties added 75% to the price of a bottle of American beer. As a result, between 1890 and 1910 beer imports into Mexico fell by 70% and imported beer soon accounted for only 5% of Mexican beer consumption. While there was a drop-off in demand for imported beer, the demand for beer in general continued to rise. This necessitated the construction of new domestic breweries. In effect, the Mexican government had pursued an import substitution policy, which had its desired effect (replacing imported beer with domestically-produced beer). If you are unfamiliar with the practice of import substitution, it refers to local production and consumption of goods and services, rather than importing them from other places.

By 1900, six firms dominated Mexican beer production. All served regional markets, It was not until technological advancements such as the growth and evolution of the country’s rail system that brewers were able to distribute their beer nationally. Further consolidation occurred in the Mexican brewing industry and by 1930, three firms dominated – Cervecería Cuauhtémoc, Cervecería Moctezuma, and Cervecería Modelo.

The popularity of Mexican beer received a significant boost during Prohibition in the United States (1920–1933), as Americans crossed the border to legally enjoy alcoholic beverages, including Mexican beer. As a result, new breweries were built near Mexico’s border with the United States. As noted in a recent paper I co-authored on this topic “as Mexico entered the second half of the 20th century, beer emerged as the country’s most popular alcoholic beverage, and Mexico could be accurately characterized as a country of beer drinkers.”

Fast forward a hundred years and today, three firms dominate Mexican beer production – Grupo Modelo, Constellation Brands, and Cervecería Cuauhtémoc Moctezuma. All three are owned by companies located outside of Mexico. Grupo Modelo is owned by Belgium-based AB InBev as a result of an acquisition by the latter in 2013. It owns and operates eight industrial breweries and two craft breweries in Mexico. Included among its most recognized brands are Corona, Pacifico, and Modelo. Cervecería Cuauhtémoc is owned by the Dutch brewing giant Heineken, who acquired it in 2010. It owns and operates seven industrial breweries in Mexico with an eighth scheduled to become operational in 2026. Its brands include Dos Equis, Tecate, and Sol.

Now we come to Constellation brands who are based in Rochester, NY. Originally a wine and spirits company, Constellation entered the world of beer following the 2013 acquisition of Grupo Modelo by AB InBev. An antitrust decision by the US Department of Justice, prohibited AB InBev from distributing and selling Grupo Model beer brands in the United States. The Justice Department felt that the acquisition “would substantially lessen competition in the market for beer in the United States as a whole and in at least 26 metropolitan areas across the United States” alleging that “the transaction would result in consumers paying more for beer and would limit innovation in the beer market.” Enter Constellation brands who purchased the right to do distribute Grupo Modelo brands in the United States. Constellation own two breweries in Mexico, with a third under construction. So if you purchase a Corona in Mexico it was produced in a brewery owned by AB InBev; purchase a Corona in the United States and it was produced in a brewery owned by Constellation Brands.

Mexico is a major player in the global beer market. In 2023, the country produced 152 million hectoliters of beer. This represented 7.6% of all the beer produced worldwide, making it one of world’s largest producers of this much enjoyed beverage. Only China, the United States, and Brazil produced more. Much of the beer produced by Mexico is exported. Indeed, Mexico exports more beer than any other country. The United States is a critical market for beer produced in Mexico. In fact, eighty percent of the beer it exports is sent to the United States.

Mexican beer is very popular in the United States. Five of top ten most popular imported beers among American consumers are Mexican brands – Modelo, Corona, Dos Equis XX, Pacifico, and Tecate. Indeed Modelo is the most popular beer in the United States, having ousted that honor from Bud Light in May 2023. While this ousting coincided with conservative consumers boycotting Bud Light following the latter’s collaboration with transgender influencer Dylan Mulvaney, it should be noted that Modelo was already well on its way to eclipsing Bud Light. The Mulvaney incident simply sped it up by a few months.

Modelo is the best selling beer in the United States

The popularity of Mexican beer is driven by several trends. One has been the growth of America’s Hispanic/Latino population. Between 1980 and 2020, the share of the U.S. population who identified as Hispanic increased from 7% to 19%. Today, Hispanic consumers account for about half of Constellation’s beer sales. Th fact that the other half is made up of non-Hispanic Americans suggests that Mexican beer has broad appeal. Indeed, recent on-premises sales of Mexican beer have been growing in states bordering Canada, which have smaller Hispanic populations.

The premiumization trend, which has impacted all segments of the American alcohol market, has also aided sales of Mexican beer. Premiumization refers to the growing preference of American consumers to purchase alcohol that has a higher price point and is perceived to be of higher quality. Premiumization is not a new trend with respect to beer. Indeed, Bart Watson, President and CEO of the Brewers Association, points out that the American beer market has experienced different waves of premiumization going as far back as the 1950s, with the emergence of craft beer being the most recent example. It is a trend that has drawn consumers to imported beers, “which are often perceived to be of higher quality“, notes Grace Wood, senior analyst at market research firm IBISWorld. This includes Mexican beers such as Corona and Modelo.

While Mexican beer is very popular in the United States it does face some challenges. Earlier this month, Constellation Brands noted falling demand among U.S. consumers. A multitude of factors are contributing to this downturn. These include reduced alcohol consumption among health conscious younger age-groups who are increasingly eschewing alcohol, general economic uncertainty, and higher grocery bills (a particular concern among Hispanic consumers). Some of these concerns are related to President Trump’s tariff policies, while others are not. This is a challenging time for the beer industry. However, evidence suggests that large brewing companies are sufficiently flexible and creative to respond to such challenges.

Further Reading:

Wang, Haoying, Rafael Garduño-Rivera, and Neil Reid. 2025. Economic geography of beer production in the context of trade liberalization and economic nationalism: The Mexican experience. Applied Geography https://doi.org/10.1016/j.apgeog.2025.103589.

One Afternoon in Košice

Earlier this summer I spent five days in Košice, Slovakia. I was there as a guest of the Technical University of Košice (TUKE) participating in a summer institute for PhD students. The focus of the institute was identifying and discussing those factors that can make cities more resilient in the face of challenges such as climate change, global health pandemics, geo-political conflicts etc. This was my second visit to Kosice in as many years, having participated in the same event last year.

Returning to Košice gave me the opportunity to catch up with Peter Škripko who owns Pivovar Hostinec, one of two breweries in the city. Pivovar, incidentally, is the Slovak word for brewery. Last year, I had spent a wonderful afternoon with Peter cycling around Košice with stop-offs at some of his favorite places to drink beer. This year, Peter picked me up from hotel in his beautiful Porsche. The first stop was Ovečka KE.CY Kiosk and beer garden, located in the Čermeľská Valley just outside the city. Starting just north of the city, the valley stretches 16km into forested hills. The 150-seater beer garden is popular with families who want to escape the city easily, as well as hikers who want some fresh air and exercise. The valley has been a destination for Košice residents since the 19th century.

According to its website, “the attraction of the kiosk are special draft beers”. The special draft beers in this case are brewed by Pivovar Hostinec. Indeed, the only beer sold at Ovečka is from Hostinec. Ovečka, in fact, is one of only two places, apart from the brewery, that sells Hostinec’s beer. The reason is simple – quality control. Based on past experience Peter is concerned about bars and restaurants handling his beer in such a way as to ensure it tastes as it should. This is an industry-wide concern. Issues that craft breweries face when others serve their beer include improperly maintained draft systems (i.e. dirty beer lines), dirty glassware, warm storage etc. The more bars and restaurants that sell a brewery’s beer the harder it is to maintain quality control. According to Julia Herz, Executive Director of the American Homebrewers Association, when the integrity of a beer is compromised “it’s very difficult to enjoy a beer as the brewer intended“. Peter wants everyone to enjoy his beer as he intended it to be enjoyed.

Ovečka KE.CY Kiosk

After a beer at Ovečka, we headed to Peter’s apartment where we had a light snack and a beer while enjoying a panoramic view of Košice from the comfort of his patio. The beer we had was a collaboration between Hostinec and Sibeeria Brewery in Prague in the Czech Republic. Called, “We Are From Exit” it was a delicious Double New England IPA, with an ABV of 8.2%. An interesting feature of this beer is its label, which was designed using AI. I wonder how common using AI to design labels is in the craft brewing industry. And will it become increasingly common in the future?

A panoramic view of Košice from the patio of Peter’s apartment
The label on this collaboration beer between Pivovar Hostinec and Sibeeria Brewery was designed using AI.

Following a beer at Peter’s apartment we headed, by foot, into the center of Kosice. The remainder of the afternoon was spent visiting some of the city’s best drinking establishments. As we walked around the city center, I was impressed with how many people Peter knew. He is clearly a well-established and well-liked member of Košice culinary scene.

Enjoying a beer with Eric, a bartender at one of Peter’s favorite beer spots

One of the places we visited was the other craft brewery in Kosice, Pivovar Golem. This was my first visit to this brewery. Curious about the name of the brewery, I learned that a golem is an anthropomorphic creature in Jewish folklore. It is often made from clay or mud. Perhaps the most famous golem narrative was written by the revered Yiddish writer I. L. Peretz in 1890. The setting for Peretz’s short story is the city of Prague in what today is called the Czech Republic. In the story, a rabbi (Rabbi Loew) brings a golem to life by placing a magic word in its mouth. At first, the golem protects the Jewish ghetto. One day, however, it flies into a rage and causes all sorts of physical damage, including the smashing of buildings. To put an end to the destruction, Rabbi Loew removes the word from the golem’s mouth, and it dissolves into dust. Shaken by the turn of events, Rabbi Loew promises himself never to bring a golem to life again. Today, it is said that the dusty remains of that particular golem are to be found in a closed-off attic of the Old New Synagogue in Prague.

The entrance to Pivovar Golem
The interior of Pivovar Golem
Peter at Pivovar Golem, with a golem in the background

It wonderful to be in the city of Košice again and to have the opportunity to spend an afternoon and catch-up with Peter Škripko. As always, Peter was amazingly generous with his time and treated to a wonderful tour of some of his favorite drinking places in the city. Walking is always a wonderful way to see a city and doing that walk with a native makes it even better. So, thank you to Peter for a wonderful afternoon. I hope we get the opportunity to do it again.

Craft Breweries: Social and Environmental Advocacy

One of the things that I like about craft breweries are the myriad ways they are embedded within and engage with their communities. This can range from naming a beer after a local event of historical significance to hosting a weekly yoga class to raising money for a local non-profit. As noted on the website of the Brewers Association a defining characteristic of craft brewers is that they “tend to be very involved in their communities through philanthropy, product donations, volunteerism and sponsorship of events”. In a 2023 paper published in the Annals of the American Association of Geographers, Colleen Myles and colleagues at Texas State University examined the different ways in which craft breweries across the United States engage in what they term advocacy. Their findings reveal breweries engage with their communities in a wide variety of ways, with environmental and social issues being particularly important to them. Indeed, 43% of the breweries sampled engaged in some form of social advocacy, while nearly a third engaged in environmental advocacy.

Examples of both types of advocacies abound. Brewability, a brewery in Englewood, CO hire employees with a disability, while Metazoa Brewing Company in Indianapolis, IN donate 5% of their profits to animal and wildlife organizations. With respect to environmental advocacy, SaltWater Brewery in Deray, FL use edible, biodegradable six-pack rings made from barley and wheat remnants — an innovation that helps combat the pernicious impacts of plastic pollution on both oceans and marine life. Meanwhile, Portico Brewing in Somerville, MA have a comprehensive environmental stewardship program that includes a reduce, reuse, recycle initiative, adding pollinator plants to their patio, and, in 2024, collaborating with the Massachusetts River Alliance to raise awareness of river restoration initiatives by hosting a trivia night.

I recently had the opportunity to experience firsthand an event where a craft brewery’s support for both social and environmental advocacy overlapped. The event was a collaboration between one of my local breweries, Quenched & Tempered Brewing Co and Metroparks Toledo, in support of the latter’s Good Natured Membership Program. The mission of the Good Natured Program is “to help break down the barriers that prevent historically underserved individuals, groups, and communities from experiencing, engaging with and benefiting from our area’s natural resources”. Funds raised in support of the Good Natured Program are used to support programing which provides fun ways for underserved communities to connect with nature and the outdoors. The Metroparks system is one of the Toledo region’s greatest assets. It comprises nineteen parks that encompass ~12,000 acres of protected natural land. Its vision is the “conservation of natural resources; strengthening of community; and the activation and promotion of spaces that enhance physical and mental health”.

The evening was billed as a “Paddle and Pint” event. The “paddle” part of the evening (in which I did not participate) involved kayaking on the Maumee River from Middlegrounds Metropark to Glass City Metropark – a distance of under a mile. The second part of the evening (which I did attend) was the release of Quenched & Tempered’s Saw-Whet Sangria Ale, a portion of the sale of which will go towards support of the Good Natured Program. The beer release took place in “The Garden” section of Glass City Metropark, where entertainment was provided by one of my favorite local bands, Chloe and the Chloe and the Steel Strings.

Quenched & Tempered’s Saw-Whet Sangria Ale, a portion of the sale of which will go towards support of the Good Natured Program.
Saw-Whet Sangria Ale by Quenched and Tempered Brewing Company was released at the Paddle and Pints event
Local band Chloe and the Steel Strings provided entertainment at the Paddle and Pints event

The Glass City Metropark provided a spectacular setting for the beer release. Opened in 2023, on a former brownfield site, the park provides a multifunctional space which includes a mini waterpark, a nature-based playscape an adventure playground, a kayak cove, an ice-skating/roller skating ribbon, and a locally owned restaurant. The park is located on the east side of the Maumee River just across from downtown Toledo.

Located on the east side of the Maumee River, the Glass City Metropark provided a spectacular setting for the Paddles and Pint event

What I really enjoyed about this evening is that it was happening in a beautiful new Metropark that has, since its opening, made a considerable contribution to enhancing the quality of life for Toledo residents. The beer being celebrated was made by a locally owned brewery, the food available was from a locally owned restaurant, and the entertainment was provided by a local band. And all of these came together in support of a local charitable non-profit whose primary mission was to create fun and educational opportunities for underserved communities to access, enjoy, and learn about the natural environment. The evening proved to be a resounding success – a good time was had by all and, more importantly, a local charitable cause was showcased and supported.

Further Reading

Myles, Colleen C., Delorean Wiley, Walter W. Furness, and Katherine Sturdivant. 2023. Brewing change: Advocacy in craft brewing in the United States. Annals of the American Association of Geographers, Volume 113, Issue 4, Pages  996-1019.

Musings on Beer