Category Archives: Covid-19

The Corona “Can”-demic

Back in February, I received a telephone call from Kevin Lynch, a reporter from the Daily Record, a newspaper in Wooster, OH. Kevin was writing a story about the beer can shortage that was the result of the Covid-19 pandemic. We’ll get back to that story in a minute, but let’s say a few words about the history of the beer can.

The world’s first beer can made its debut on January 24, 1935. On that day, the Krueger Brewing Company of Newark, NJ test marketed the beer can in Richmond, VA. Two different beers were available to thirsty Richmonders – Krueger’s Cream Ale and Krueger’s Finest Beer. The initial run was only 2,000 cans, but production increased after beer drinkers provided positive feedback on the new vessel. These first cans were made by the New Jersey-based American Can Company.

The world’s first beer cans contained Krueger’s Cream Ale and Krueger’s Finest Beer.

Compared with today’s cans, the first beer cans were heavy and had to be opened with a churchkey opener. With the passage of time, however, the humble beer can has evolved. In 1935, cone top cans appeared. These were followed by pull-tab cans in 1962, and stay-tab cans in 1975.

In recent years, canned beer has become increasingly popular among craft beer drinkers. This popularity has been driven by a number of factors. Cans can be taken where bottles are prohibited – for example the pool or the beach. They are also lighter than bottles, making them more portable and hence a preferred choice for outdoor activities such as hiking. Aluminum cans are also highly recyclable, more so than glass. According to data from The Aluminum Association, “nearly 75 percent of all aluminum produced in the U.S. is still in use today”. But what about taste? Does a beer in a can taste as good as the same beer in a bottle? A blind taste test conducted in Edinburgh, Scotland in 2016 demonstrated that beer drinkers could not tell the difference between canned and bottled beer.

The recent Covid-19 pandemic has created a demand for canned beer that was both unprecedented and unanticipated. The crux of the problem lies in the fact that Covid-19 forced many craft brewery taprooms to temporarily close. When they reopened, they had to do so at reduced capacities. Bars and restaurants, that sold craft beer, had similar restrictions placed upon them. Unable to sell their beer to taproom customers or to bars and restaurants, craft breweries had to either sell their beer on a to-go basis or via supermarkets and liquor stores. In either case, this meant that beer which was formerly put in kegs now had to be put in cans. The result – a significant surge in demand for aluminum cans.

Earlier this year, I listened to a webinar presentation that Bart Watson, Chief Economist of the Brewers Association, made to the Economic Roundtable of the Ohio Valley. Bart presented a number of interesting statistics during his presentation, one of which was the growing popularity of cans as the preferred packaging for craft beer. In 2016, only 16% of craft beer (measured in dollar value) was sold in cans. By 2019, this percentage had increased to 38%, and by 2020 to 50%. So while Covid-19 created an increase in demand for beer cans among craft breweries, that demand was already rising steadily on a year-by-year basis. Indeed, as far back as 2015, a shortage of cans was already creating challenges for some craft brewers.

Covid-19 demonstrated how quickly demand for aluminum cans can increase. In March 2020, retail sales of canned drinks was up 24%, compared with March 2019. For individual breweries the shift to cans has been dramatic. For example, in 2109, draft beer accounted for two-thirds of sales for Wolf‘s Ridge Brewing in Columbus, OH. As a result of Covid-19, cans now account for two-thirds of Wolf Ridge’s sales. Prior to Covid-19, Booze Brothers Brewery in Vista, CA canned about 35 percent of its beer; that increased to 80% as a result of the pandemic.

Due to insufficient production capacity, it was not easy for suppliers to meet such an uptick in demand. This mismatch between supply and demand meant that the United States market was, according to one estimate, short 10 billion cans in 2020. As a result, some American companies looked to other countries, such as Brazil and Mexico, to import cans. In Brazil, in sharp contrast to the United States, Covid-19 resulted in a drop in demand for cans. This is because canned drinks in Brazil are upscale and are sold almost exclusively in bars and restaurants which, of course, shut down.

Increase in Retail Sales of Cans in First Six Months of 2020 (Compared with Same Month in 2019). Source: IRI-Wall Street Journal

The shortage has been exacerbated by the upsurge in popularity of hard seltzers, most of which are packaged and sold in cans. Add to that growing demand for energy drinks, kombucha, ready-to-drink cocktails etc. and the gap between supply and demand grows. In the United States 380 different beverages are packaged in aluminum cans.

The can shortage created significant challenges for craft breweries across the United States. During a shortage, it is the larger customers (Pepsi, Coke, Anheuser Busch, etc.) whose orders get prioritized. And when demand exceeds supply, prices can go up, which is exactly what many craft breweries, such as Barrel House Z in Weymouth, MA, experienced. And, it was not uncommon for breweries to run out of cans before the next shipment arrived.

Breweries who anticipated the can shortage, and had the necessary cash, stocked up on cans – many did not have the capital (or space) to do so, however. Those that did, were better able to weather the Covid-19 can shortage. Most small brewers purchase their cans through brokers, some of whom changed the terms of business in response to Covid-19. Minimum shipment sizes increased, which was problematic for smaller breweries. Some brokers, who previously provided free storage space for cans, no longer did so. As a result, some breweries had to sublet space to store cans. Sun King Brewing in Indianapolis, IN rented warehouse space four miles from its brewery, while East Brother Beer Co. in Richmond, CA sublet space from a co-tenant in its building. Unanticipated storage were not the only additional costs incurred by breweries who shifted from selling beer on-site to canning beer for to-go sales. Other costs included increased packaging costs and higher wages for former tipped bar staff who now assisted with the canning process. Additionally, canning beer requires a canning machine. Most breweries, including many who can beer, do not own a dedicated canning machine. Instead, they utilize a mobile canning machine which is provided by an independent firm. Mobile canning is used by breweries who do not have the money or space for a dedicated on-site canning machine, or who do not wish to can large volumes of their beer.

When will the can-demic end? One forecast suggests that craft brewers may have to wait until August 2021 for a steady supply of cans to be available. Ball Corporation, the world’s largest manufacturer of aluminum cans, will open new production facilities in Glendale, AZ and Pittson, PA in the spring and summer of 2021 respectively. In the meantime, newly opened breweries, hoping to can their beer, may have to exercise patience as many brokers are not taking on new accounts. The pressure to supply existing accounts is simply too strong. In extreme cases, there was a fear that the can shortage may result in some breweries going out of business. In a can shortage advisory issued to its members in July 2020, the Brewers Association warned that the “can shortage may threaten the ability to survive the pandemic for some craft brewers.” Recent data released by the Brewers Association suggests that the number of breweries that closed due to Covid-19 may not be as high as first anticipated during the early days of the pandemic. This is good news. And as increasing numbers of people get vaccinated and States ease up on capacity restrictions for bars and restaurants, some of the pressure on cans is likely to start to dissipate.

Covid-19 and the return of the Speakeasy

Hear the word “speakeasy” and you probably think of Prohibition; that 13 year period (1920-1933) when the production, importation, transportation, and sale of alcoholic beverages were prohibited. The term speakeasy, however, predates Prohibition. Defined as  “a place where alcoholic beverages are illegally sold”, the origin of the term has been traced to early 19th century England, where the term “speak softly shop” denoted a place where smugglers could offload goods and avoid taxes. The term “speak easy shop” was used in Selsea, England in 1844 in reference to an unlicensed tavern. It was first used in the United States in 1889, when Kate Hester, a saloonkeeper in McKeesport, PA told some boisterous patrons to “speak easy, boys!” McKee was selling alcohol without a license.

Thankfully, America’s failed experiment with Prohibition ended with the ratification of the 21st Amendment on December 5, 1933. Saloon owners could now open their doors without the fear of a visit from law enforcement officers in pursuit of those selling illegal alcohol. Alas, as the Book of Ecclesiastes tells us “ What has been will be again, what has been done will be done again; there is nothing new under the sun.” And so, here we are, in 2021. The world is in the grip of the Covid-19 pandemic and local and state authorities are circumscribing the gathering of people in bars and craft breweries. The objective is straightforward – to slow down the spread of the Covid-19 virus. Strategies employed by authorities vary from place to place and evolve with the passage of time in response to changing circumstances. When cases of Covid-19 spiked in the spring and summer of 2020, authorities ordered bars and craft breweries  to close. When this occurred, curbside pick-up or home delivery were the only ways that impacted establishments could get their product into the hands of consumers. As restrictions eased bars and breweries were able to invite patrons back into their establishments. However, as Covid-19 infections spiked again, some jurisdictions introduced curfews.  In my state of Ohio, for example, Governor DeWine introduced a 10pm-5am curfew on November 19, 2020. As Covid-19 numbers improved, Ohio’s curfew was extended to 11pm on January 28, 2021 and then revoked on February 11, 2021. The underlying logic was that by closing bars and breweries during their busiest hours the spread of Covid-19 could be mitigated. Breaking curfew in Ohio was a second-degree misdemeanor, punishable by up to 90 days in jail and a $750 fine. During times that bars and breweries were legally open, social distancing rules had to be observed.

The illegal consumption of alcohol has seen an uptick in the use of the term speakeasy among the nation’s media. “Cops Raid 2 Illegal Clubs, Say Speakeasies Cropping up after State Enacted 10 p.m. Curfew” stated one headline on NJ.com. And my favorite – “Lap Dances, Karaoke, Late Hours: The Speakeasies of the Covid Era” read a headline in the New York Times.

So, what should we make of the emergence of 21st century speakeasies? We certainly should not be surprised that curfew and social distancing laws and guidelines are being flouted. I say “not surprisingly” because if Prohibition taught us one thing it was that any legislation designed to dictate to Americans when and where they can consume alcohol is bound to be met with opposition and disregarded (at least by some members of the population). And so, it has been. Newspapers across the country are filled with stories about bars being visited by law enforcement officers and cited for curfew violations. I should note that breaking curfew to enjoy a beer at the neighborhood bar is not unique to the United States, as this story from South Africa illustrates. South Africa had one of the strictest (if not the strictest) Covid-19-related alcohol legislation – banning its sale and distribution completely. While some of us were content (or at least tolerated) virtual Happy Hours, others clearly wanted the real thing.

Another factor to consider in trying to understand the breaking of alcohol curfews is that visiting a bar or brewery is a key activity in the social life of many individuals. Back in the 1980s, urban sociologist, Ray Oldenburg, introduced us to the concept of the Third Place. Third Places exist in contrast to First Places (home) and Second Places (work) and are those places (bars, coffee shops, bowling alleys, etc.) where we go to gather with friends to unwind. As a result of Covid-19, many Americans have been confined to their First Place (home), with access to Second Places (Work) and Third Places (Social Gathering Places) restricted and denied. Social isolation, forced upon us by Covid-19, has exacerbated loneliness. In an article in the Wall Street Journal, Janet Adamy and Paul Overberg cite research which finds that “loneliness takes a physical toll, and is as closely linked to early mortality as smoking up to 15 cigarettes a day or consuming more than six alcoholic drinks a day. Loneliness is even worse for longevity than being obese or physically inactive.” In 2018, The Economist called loneliness a serious public health problem. Today, single person households comprise 28% of all American households.

In his book, The Great Good Place the Urban Sociologist, Ray Oldenburg, wrote about the importance of Third Places in the social life of communities

The highly respected British Anthropologist, Robin Dunbar, has studied the social and mental health benefits of going to a pub. Numerous studies conducted by Dunbar has led him to conclude that “there are social and well being benefits to be derived directly from drinking alcohol, especially in relaxed social environments”. According to Dunbar, hanging out with friends in a bar, drinking beer, telling jokes, exchanging gossip, etc. releases endorphins in the brain. These endorphins “generate a positive feeling in a person, similar to that of morphine. So we feel good. And crucially, alcohol also activates the endorphin system, which in itself will enhance social bonds among those who indulge together.” Dunbar also cites research that shows that the probability of still being alive twelve months after a heart attacks was higher for people with vibrant social networks. To quote Dunbar, “our social networks play a central role in our ability to survive the worst traumas that life can throw at us. And those networks are very clearly enhanced by the use of alcohol”.

Robin Dunbar, the respected British Anthropologist, writes eloquently and convincingly about the social and health benefits of drinking alcohol

For many of us, Covid-19 is the worst trauma that life has thrown at us. Social isolation has taken a huge toll on human society. Within that context it is perhaps understandable why curfews (and even social distancing) laws have been flouted, and why the speakeasy has reappeared, albeit temporarily, as part of the American vernacular.

Further Reading:

Dunbar, Robin I. M., Jacques Launay, Rafael Wlodarski, Cole Robertson, Eiluned Pearce, James Carney, and Pádraig MacCarron. 2017. Functional benefits of (modest) alcohol consumptionAdaptive Human Behavior and Physiology, Volume 3, pp. 118–133.

Oldenburg, Ray. 1989. The Great Good Place. De Capo Press: Cambridge, MA.

Inspired By Covid-19

Craft brewers are highly creative and innovative individuals. In addition to a love of beer, I would argue that the opportunity to be creative and innovative is what attracts many individuals to become home brewers, keeps them engaged in the hobby, and eventually propels them to open their own commercial brewery. Every brewer, with whom I have had a conversation, stresses the joy they get from brewing a new beer using a recipe that they concocted themselves. But creativity and innovation in the brewing world extends well beyond that of creating a new beer. Indeed, the next time you step into a brewery, you will see evidence of creativity everywhere – from the tap handles, to the designs on beer cans, to the very names of the beers themselves.

When it comes to beer names, many brewers choose beer names that connect the beer drinker with the brewery’s local community, whether that be a historical event, local landmark, or famous person. Great Lakes Brewing Company in Cleveland, OH do a particularly good job at this. Their portfolio of beers include Elliot Ness Amber Lager (named after the American Prohibition Agent who was hired as Cleveland’s Safety Director in 1935), Edmund Fitzgerald Porter (named after the freighter that sank during a storm on Lake Superior on November 10, 1975, with the loss of its entire crew of 29), and Ohio City Oatmeal Stout (named after the Cleveland neighborhood where the brewery is located). Other breweries have named beers after people, events etc. that have no connection with their community. For example, a number of breweries released beers to recognize the 50th anniversary of Neil Armstrong being the first human to set foot on the moon. These include Schlafly Brewery in St. Louis, MO who released their Lunar Lager variety pack. The pack included Lift-Off Lager, Apollo’s Orbit Black Lager, Moon Walk Dunkel, and The Eagle Has Landed American Lager.

Given the penchant of craft breweries to name beers after historically significant people or events, it should come as no surprise that the current Covid-19 pandemic has spawned several appropriately named beers. Here are some of the ones I came across while browsing the web.

Fauci Spring: Brewed by Wild Heaven Beer in Avondale, GA, this Açaí Pale Ale (ABV 4.25%) recognizes Dr. Anthony Fauci. As Director of the National Institute of Allergy and Infectious Diseases, Dr. Fauci has been a critical member of the White House Coronavirus Task Force. Most evenings he appears on our television screens during the daily Task Force Press briefings.

Fauci Spring Açaí Pale Ale (Wild Heaven Beer, Avondale, GA)

Don’t Stand So Close To Me: In efforts to mitigate the spread of Covid-19 and flatten the curve we are all encouraged to maintain our social distance (six feet) from other people. Social distancing has provided inspiration for several new brews. The aforementioned Wild Haven Beer have produced a German-style Lager which they called Don’t Stand So Close To Me, a German-style Lager.

Don’t Stand So Close To Me German Style Lager (Wild Heaven Beer, Avondale, GA)

Social Distance: Brewed by Hop Springs in Murfreesboro, TN Social Distance is another beer that encourages people to keep at least six feet apart. Part of the profits from this Tennessee Ale (think a hoppier Hefeweizen) goes to support workers in the local hospitality industry who are not working because of Covid-19.

Social Distance (Hop Springs, Murfreesboro, TN)

PPE: Many of us have become familiar with the acronym PPE. It stands for Personal Protective Equipment and refers to a variety of products such as face masks, gowns, gloves etc. that protect the wearer against infection. Much of the news during the Covid-19 pandemic has focused on the shortage of PPE. Water’s End Brewery of Lake Ridge, VA and Beltway Brewing of Sterling, VA have come together and collaborated to produce PPE, an IPA with an ABV of 6.4%. In the case of the beer, PPE stands for People Performing under Extreme Conditions. Six dollars of every six pack sold is contributed to the Inova Covid-19 Emergency Preparedness Fund. Inova is northern Virginia’s leading nonprofit healthcare provider.

PPE (Water’s End Brewery, Lake Ridge, VA and Beltway Brewing, Sterling, VA)

Thank You Note: Brewed by Slow Pour Brewing Company of Lawrenceville, GA, Thank You Note is an IPA. Any frontline worker (nurses, doctors, truck drivers, grocery store clerks etc.) are able to stop by Slow Pour’s tasting room and, with an ID, can get a free six-pack of the beer. This beer is a true Thank You Note to frontline workers who are working so hard, often under stressful conditions, during the Covid-19 pandemic.

Thank You Note (Slow Pour Brewing, Lawrenceville, GA)

Stir Crazy: During the stay-at-home orders issued by most states, many of us went a little stir crazy right. Recognizing this reality, Boomtown Brewery of Los Angeles, CA are brewing a Hazy IPA named Stir Crazy. It has an ABV of 7%.

Stir Crazy (Boomtown Brewery, Los Angeles, CA)

For The Front Line: Harpoon Brewery in Boston, MA has released a an IPA (ABV 5%) that it is calling For The Front Line. The beer is, in fact, a re-release of its Harpoon Ale, which it first brewed back in 1986. A portion of the profits made from selling the beer will  be donated to charities in both Boston and Vermont that support frontline and hospitality workers.

For The Frontline (Harpoon Brewery, Boston, MA)

Donate To Service Industry Workers By Drinking This Beer: This is perhaps the Covid-19 inspired beer with the longest name – Donate to Service Workers by Drinking This Beer. Brewed by Hi-Wire Brewing of Asheville, NC this IPA (ABV 5%) gets straight to the point. Sales of this beer will  benefit unemployed hospitality workers in both North Carolina, as well as in other parts of the country. Hi-Wire will donate some of the profits to the USBG National Charity Foundation and the North Carolina Restaurant Workers Relief Fund.

Donate to Service Industry Workers by Drinking this Beer (Hi-Wire Brewing, Asheville, NC).

FVCK COVID: Ale Asylum in Madison, WI leaves you in no doubt about how they feel about Covid-19. Their new beer, FVCK COVID, a Pilsner (ABV 4%), conveys a straightforward message. Some of the profits from the beer will go to support health care workers at local hospitals, as well as unemployed hospitality industry workers.

FVCK COVID (Ale Asylum, Madison, WI)

Lifesavers and National Heroes: Covid-19 inspired beers are also appearing on the other side of the Atlantic Ocean. The London Beer Factory in London, UK have brewed two beers that honor frontline workers who work for Britain’s National Health Service (NHS). Lifesavers is an American Pale Ale (ABV 4.2%) while National Heroes (ABV 4.0%) is a Lager. The revenue from the sale of both beers are going to two London hospital charities. Revenue from Lifesavers will benefit the King’s College Hospital Charity and Guy’s Hospital Charity.

Lifesavers and National Heroes (The London Beer Factory, London, UK)

All Together: Finally, there is All Together, a worldwide brewing initiative organized by Other Half Brewing Co. who have breweries in Brooklyn, NY and Rochester, NY. Other Half came up with the simple idea of getting breweries all over the world to use the same recipe to brew the same beer (All Together). Some of the monies generated from the beer support local hospitality workers, while some is retained by the brewery to help them get through this difficult period. As stated by Other Half Brewing Co., on their website:

“All Together is a worldwide, open-ended beer collaboration created to raise support for the industry we love so much. It’s an effort to raise awareness and provide relief, even in the smallest way, to those who are struggling. We’re inviting any brewer, from any corner of the planet to participate.”

Breweries wishing to participate can attain the recipe and artwork to produce the beer. As stated by Other Half Brewing Co. on their website, “the recipe is open source, the artwork is public, and the name is yours to use.” The recipe is intentionally flexible, so that brewers can produce either a New England IPA or a West Coast IPA. Literally dozens of breweries have taken up the challenge laid down by Other Half, and are producing All Together Beer. And it is not just breweries in the United States; craft breweries in Canada, New Zealand, Latin America, and Europe are participating. The name is inspired by the rallying call that, when it comes to Covid-19, we are all in this together.

Breweries wishing to produce All Together IPA can download the label template from the website of Other Half Brewing Co.
Promotional material for All Together IPA can be downloaded from the website of All Together Brewing Co.

Craft breweries across the United States, and in other countries, are struggling to sell enough beer to survive Covid-19. Some will not survive; indeed some have already permanently closed. Despite these challenges, the creativity and generosity of those working in the industry refuses to be squelched. I have written before about craft breweries (and distilleries) producing and distributing complimentary hand sanitizer to members of the general public and/or frontline workers. We also see this generosity manifest itself in the donation of monies from Covid-19 inspired beers. To some, such generosity in the face of economic adversity may be surprising. But to those of us who know and understand the craft beer community, recognize the fact that generosity is part of the DNA of those working in the craft brewing industry.