Category Archives: Diversity

Britain’s Desi Pubs

Last month I participated in an online webinar on “Public House: The Culture and Society of the London Pub“. It was organized and hosted by the The Society of Architectural Historians of Great Britain, an organization which brings together academics, architects, heritage experts, and others with an interest in the history of the built environment. The presentation on London pubs was made by Dr David Knight of the Royal College of Art in London. During his presentation, Dr Knight identified over a dozen different types of London pub. Some types, such as Coaching Inns, no longer exist, while others such as the Community Pub are alive and well. Of the different types of pub that Dr Knight mentioned during his presentation, one in particular peaked my curiosity – Desi Pubs. When I first saw the term I thought that perhaps “Desi” was short for “Destination” and that a Desi Pub was a type of pub that was a destination for visitors to a city – for example, The Temple Bar in Dublin, Ireland. As it turns out, I was wrong in my assumption. A Desi Pub is, in fact, a colloquial term for a pub which is owned or managed by a landlord of Indian origin. In a Desi Pub, along with traditional English Ale, you can enjoy a lunch comprising traditional Indian cuisine. This got me curious, so I thought I’d do some research into the origins and current status of Britain’s Desi pubs.

Desi Pubs have their origins in the 1960s, and were primarily a response to racism experienced by British Asians. Desi Pubs provided a “safe space” where British Asians could enjoy a couple of pints of beer, and some traditional (primarily Punjabi) cuisine, without fear of harassment. This harassment was experienced first hand by the American civil rights activist, Malcom X, who visited the Blue Gate pub in Smeth

The term “Desi” means “local“, “home”, or “from the country” and is geographically linked to the south Asian countries of India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. There are over 4.3 million individuals of Asian ancestry living in the UK. This constitutes 7% of the U.K. population, making them the second largest ethnic/racial group after Whites. Most of Britain’s Asian residents have their family roots in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. British residents of Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi origin constitute 2.3%, 1.9%, and 0.7% of Britain’s population respectively. India’s Punjab region, Pakistan’s Mirpur District, and Bangladesh’s Sylhet region, in particular, were the main sources of Asian migrants to Britain in the post-1947 period. Britain, of course, developed strong ties with the Indian sub-continent as a result of both trading and its colonial exploits. Post World War II labor shortages in the United Kingdom provided an opportunity for Indians, Pakistanis, and Bangladeshis who sought a better life outside of their country of birth.

As a student at the University of Glasgow, Scotland between 1981 and 1985, I was well aware of the presence of the city’s Pakistani and Indian populations. Indian restaurants were (and still are) numerous and hugely popular and were often my restaurant of choice before heading our for an evening of drinking beer with friends. Newsagents and convenience stores, many owned by Pakistanis, were equally ubiquitous. Every Wednesday, I’d pop into the same one and purchase a copy of The Celtic View, the weekly newspaper of the soccer team I supported. It was only after doing this for a couple of months that I discovered that the owner of the store, Hassan, supported Celtic’s arch enemies, Rangers. After that discovery there was a lot of friendly banter back and forth between myself and Hassan every time I frequented his store. But I digress.

Curry is an enormously popular dish in the United Kingdom, so much so that so that it has been dubbed the “UK’s adopted national dish”. In 2001, the then British Foreign Secretary, Robin Cook, referred to Chicken Tikka Massala (chunks of chicken in a spiced curry sauce) as “a true British national dish“. There are an estimated 12,000 curry restaurants (often referred to as curry houses) in the United Kingdom, employing somewhere in the region of 100,000 people. Such is the importance of curry to British culture that in 2015, the British Parliament established a British Curry Catering Industry All-Party Parliamentary Group, whose purpose is to “provide a forum for parliamentarians to consider and discuss the role and contribution of the British curry catering industry”.

While many curry houses are branded as “Indian” restaurants, most are in fact owned by immigrants and/or their descendants from Bangladesh. Indeed, between 80% and 90% of British curry-house owners can trace their roots back to the Bangladeshi city of Sylhet. The Red Lion is one example of a Desi Pub. Located in Birmingham, England it has been in the hands of the Purewal family since 1997. The Red Lion website emphasize the quality of their food, noting that “the standard of food matches that of high end Indian restaurants”. The Red Lion also boasts that “our chefs are well experienced, coming from some of the top restaurants in India”.

Part of the Red Lion’s menu

While the clientele of Britain’s original Desi Pubs were primarily from Britain’s Asian community, today they function as integrated, multi-ethnic, spaces. One observer notes that Desi Pubs are “a celebration of multiculturalism . . . offering Indian food to white and brown customers alike”, while another suggests that they are an “East meets West story, where the classic English pub with its ale, darts and dominoes meets Punjabi food and Bhangra”. According to Bera Mahli, who runs the Red Cow and Grill in Smethwick (just outside Birmingham) with his brother Gamy, “the curries served up in old boozers are now bringing people together in a positive way – rather than be used as a negative marker to highlight racial differences.”

Some Desi Pubs have become what are termed Third Places (community gathering places).  The aforementioned Bera Mahli observes that, “the pub is more a community centre than anything else – for everyone.  One of the big changes is seeing Asian families in the pubs. Back when I was younger,  pubs in the Indian community were just for men only. These days as they are no longer places just to drink,  we have Asian girls, aunties and grandmas”. The aforementioned Red Lion pub in Birmingham promotes itself as “an easy going and family friendly pub

For several decades, the United Kingdom has seen a decrease in the number of pubs, as closures have outnumbered openings. A 2014 report showed that the United Kingdom had lost around 21,000 pubs since 1980, with most closures having occurred since 2006. Reasons for this decline include the smoking ban, increased taxation on alcohol, and a reduction in alcohol consumption. Many of Britain’s Desi Pubs are former pubs that had closed and have, in fact, been resurrected by their Asian owners. In addition to saving some old British pubs, the owners of the Desi Pubs may become one of the last bastions of authentic Indian cuisine. The authenticity of the great British curry is under attack.

Diversity in Craft Beer – A Hot Cause in Need of Cool Mobilization

One of the attractions of craft beer is its diversity – particularly the diversity of styles (the Brewers Association recognizes over 150 styles of beer), flavors (Black Cherry Porter anyone?), and strengths. Walk into any craft brewery and the chances are that your choice will include Brown Ale, Stout, Pilsner, Pale Ale, several different IPAs, and a host of other different styles, while the strength of the beer on offer may range from a sessionable 4.2% ABV to a more intimidating 12% ABV. No one can deny, that when it comes to offering the beer drinker diversity, craft beer is king.

A diverse selection of beers at Basecamp Brewing in Portland, OR

There is, however, another type of diversity that is sorely lacking in the craft brewing industry, and that is, what I term demographic diversity. When we look at any population, we can break it down along a number of different parameters – age, gender, race/ethnicity being three of the more important ones. If we look at the U.S. population, for example, 50.8% are female, 16.5% are 65 years of age or older, 18.5% are Latino or Hispanic, 13.4% are Black or African-American, and 13.5% are foreign born (I am part of that 13.5%). No matter how you look at it, America is a diverse place. According to the Population Reference Bureau, “the U.S. population is significantly more diverse racially and ethnically now than it was in 1900“. And as the 21st century progresses, America will become more diverse.

A 2019 survey by the Brewers Association showed, not surprisingly perhaps, that ownership and employment in the craft brewing industry is disproportionately White and Male. Starting with race/ethnicity, 88.4% of brewery owners are White. In contrast, Whites only comprise 76.3% of the U.S. population. Of the various racial/ethnic groups in the United States, the one that is most underrepresented in the craft brewing industry are Blacks or African Americans. Despite compromising 13.4% of the U.S. population, only 1% of craft brewery owners and 0.6% of production brewers are Black or African American. When you walk into a craft brewery taproom, it is unlikely that the bartender pouring your pint will be Black or African American – only 4.2% of non-managerial service staff are Black or African American. When an African-American bartender serves the newly released IPA, the chances are that the person he or she is serving is White – in 2018, 85.5% of craft beer drinkers were non-Hispanic Whites.

Only 4.2% of non-managerial service staff in American craft breweries are Black or African American
Black Frog Brewery – A Black-owned brewery in Holland, OH

With the recent widespread protests over racial injustice, the issue of demographic diversity within the craft beer industry has come to the fore. To their credit, the Brewers Association had already established a number of initiatives (prior to the events of 2020) to encourage, support, and facilitate diversity within the craft brewing industry. These include the establishment of a Diversity Committee, the appointment of a Diversity Ambassador, the creation of Diversity and Inclusion Event Grants Program, and a number of Diversity Best Practices resources. All of these initiatives and resources are extremely important and have the potential to make a difference. They are not enough, however.

As I ponder the issue of diversity within the craft brewing industry, I think that the ideas of Hayagreeva Rao are instructive. Rao (his friends call him Huggy) is a Professor of Organizational Behavior and Human Resources at Stanford University. Rao is an expert in collective action within organizations and in markets. In 2009, Rao published a book titled Market Rebels: How Activists Make or Break Radical Innovations. Rao is primarily interested in how innovations (e.g., personal computers, hybrid cars, craft beer – yes he does devote a chapter to craft beer) become a market success. Many innovations, such as craft beer, challenge the status quo. Successfully challenging the status quo requires challenging and overcoming cultural values that are often deeply entrenched within society, or a sub-group thereof. The two keys to successfully challenging the status quo are what Rao calls hot causes and cool mobilizations. According to Rao, “hot causes mobilize passions and engender new beliefs, and cool mobilization triggers new behavior while allowing new beliefs to develop.” Hot causes “inspire feelings of pride or anger“. Take the craft beer revolution as an example (which Rao does in his aforementioned book) – the hot cause was dissatisfaction with mass produced beer, while the cool mobilization were the homebrew clubs and then brewpubs and microbreweries that were established as a response. Now let’s take these two ideas and apply them to the issue of diversity (or lack thereof) in the craft brewing industry.

The hot cause is quite apparent – there is a lack of diversity within the world of craft brewing. So how do we change that? To begin with, any successful challenge to the status quo requires activists; folks who feel passionate about the cause. In the beginning, these activists are often few in number. Therefore, they have to be able to grow the movement by inspiring others to join them. Identifying a hot cause, while necessary, is an insufficient condition for change, however. Change occurs when the hot cause leads to cool mobilization. Put simply, cool mobilization is when you actually take action to bring about the change that you desire to see. Cool mobilization, as Rao notes, “requires conscious participation—indeed, participants have to ‘fill out’ the experience through their actions and experimentation.”

So with respect to increasing diversity with craft brewing, what does cool mobilization look like, and who is going to undertake it? These are important questions. When it comes to increasing diversity with craft beer, no single person or entity is (nor should they be) charged with making it happen. As I said above, the initiatives and programs started by the Brewers Association are excellent, but are insufficient. Real change is going to be grass roots and bottom-up. “Be the Change You Wish to See in the World” is a phrase we sometimes hear invoked. Erroneously attributed to Mahatma Gandhi, this maxim does, I believe, provide clues as to the way forward. What is the change we want to see? It seems astonishingly simple – we want to see more Black-owned breweries, more Black brewers, more Black brewery staff, and more Black craft beer drinkers (have I missed anything)? Now this is a blog entry (not a doctoral dissertation), so I really do not have the space to address all of these in the detail that they deserve. But take something simple, like having more Black bar staff at a craft brewery taproom. It is incumbent upon brewery owners to make this happen – they, after all, are the ones making hiring decisions. This is where the Diversity Best Practices resources available from the Brewers Association can be tremendously helpful. They provide breweries with strategies, tactics, and benchmarks for creating a more diverse and inclusive brewery staff. For example, to enhance the diversity of an applicant pool, one tactic offered by the Brewers Association is to “strategically list advertisements in locations that will increase the size and variety of your labor pool”. When it comes to creating benchmarks, the BA suggests that brewery staff should “reflect the demographic diversity of the surrounding community”. It is clear, from reviewing the Best Practices resources on the Brewers Association website, that increasing diversity within the industry will not be easy; nor will it happen overnight. It will require effort on the part of breweries. It will require them to be strategic. It will require them to be intentional. Will enough breweries be willing to step-up and do what is necessary to change the status quo? The hot cause exists. Whether it is hot enough and/or whether the necessary cool mobilization will occur, only time will tell.

Further Reading:

Rao, Hayagreeva. 2009. Market Rebels: How Activists Make or Break Radical Innovations. Princeton University Press: Princeton, NJ.