Earlier this year, I spent a week in the city of Košice in Slovakia. I was there participating in a week-long Summer Institute at the Technical University of Košice. The participants in the Summer Institute were faculty from nine countries and doctoral students from five countries. The event was described as a week-long bootcamp in which participants would explore, discuss, and debate “the X-factor of a city” – the X-factor being those characteristics and features of a city that contribute to it being high performing and making it a wonderful place to live and work.
Among other responsibilities, my participation in the event included giving an hour-long presentation on a topic of relevance to the bootcamp’s theme. My particular presentation focused on the role and importance of Third Places in the modern city. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept of Third Places, they are, to quote the urban sociologist Ray Oldenburg, “nothing more than informal public gathering places”. Much of my own research on the craft brewing industry has examined how craft breweries function as neighborhood Third Places in towns and cities across America. You can read some of my thoughts on craft breweries as Third Places here, here, and here. While my presentation included some discussion of the role of American craft breweries and British community pubs as Third Places, much of it focused on the concept of Third Places more broadly.
Getting ready to talk about Third Places at the Technical University of Košice
If you are unfamiliar with the city of Košice, it is the second largest city in the country and the largest city (population ~240,000) in eastern Slovakia. Dating back to the 13th century, the city has a long and fascinating history. At various times during its history, it was part of the Kingdom of Hungary, the Principality of Transylvania, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and Czechoslovakia. Since the break-up of Czechoslovakia in 1993, it has been part of the Slovak Republic.
On the second to last evening of the bootcamp we had a farewell gathering. And guess what – this was held in a brewery. Pivovar Hostinec (Hostinec Brewery) was established in 2015 by Peter Škripko. It is housed in a building that dates to the second half of the 15th century. Originally a private residence, it was purchased by the city of Košice in 1569 and run as an inn. In 1617, a section of the building was leased and converted into a printing house; the first printing house in Kosice. Records indicate that part of the building was used as a brewery (the first in Košice) in 1604. The building was also the venue for the wedding festivities of Gabriel Bethlen, the Prince of Transylvania, and Catherine of Brandenburg in 1626. The marriage established an alliance between the Protestant Prince of Transylvania and the Protestant powers of Denmark and Sweden. This is certainly a building with a long and rich history. But that’s enough history. Let’s talk about beer.
Knowing my interest in craft brewing, the conference organizers asked me if I would be willing to collaborate with the brewery owner, Peter Škripko, and host a short but educational and fun presentation to kick-off the evening’s proceedings. Peter and I had a Zoom call and devised a plan of action. I would give a short presentation on the history of the craft brewing movement, after which he would provide an overview of the history of the brewery. Following that, Peter would lead the attendees through a tasting of four of the brewery’s beers.
Talking about the origins of the craft brewing movement at Hostinec Brewery
Peter led our group through a tasting of some of his brewery’s beers
Like many European craft breweries, Pivovar Hostinec, has a relatively small number of different beers on tap at any given time. Unlike many American craft breweries, which might have over a dozen different beers on tap, Pivovar Hostinec usually has six. The formal beer tasting was followed by a tour (and more tasting) of one of the brewery’s cellars where the fermentation tanks are housed. Not surprisingly, the evening was a roaring success, much of which was due to Peter’s vibrant and generous personality (and copious amounts of beer).
The evening finished with a tour of the cellars where Hostinec’s beer is brewed
Our group enjoyed the opportunity to tour Hostinec’s production space while sampling more beers
As I noted at the beginning of this blog entry, the aim of the week was to identify those characteristics and features of a city that contribute to it being high performing and making it a wonderful place to live and work. As the evening wound down, there were few of us who did not appreciate the role that Peter Škripko and Pivovar Hostinec play in enhancing the quality of life in the city of Košice.
Craft brewers are incredibly generous people. This generosity is manifest in a myriad of ways. As an example, take their efforts in support of charitable initiatives. While the data are rather dated, in 2016, American craft breweries donated an astonishing $73.4 million to charities. Many of these dollars benefited organizations in their own communities and, by extension, local residents. In 2019, 95 craft breweries in the state of Minnesota who responded to a survey, reported contributing $874,310 to 3,000 community and charitable organizations.
In the 10+ years I have been studying the craft brewing industry I have also found craft brewers very generous of their time when I have asked them for an interview or tour of their brewery. This does not surprise me. Craft brewers are passionate about their profession and are very happy to make the time to share that passion with you.
Recently I experienced an unprecedented example of craft brewer generosity. I was in the city of Košice in Slovakia to participate in a Summer Institute at the Technical University of Košice (TUKE). Prior to my visit my friend and colleague, Oto Hudec (who is on the faculty at TUKE) had connected me with Peter Škripko, the owner of Pivovar Hostinec, one of two breweries in the city. Peter offered to give me a tour of both his brewery and the city, including a visit to some of his favorite craft beer bars.
Peter and I had arranged to meet after lunch on a Wednesday afternoon. During lunch, Oto got a telephone call from Peter, asking if I would be comfortable touring the city by bike rather than by foot. This would allow Peter to provide me with a geographically more expansive tour of the city. When Oto asked me about the possibility of touring by bike, I must admit that I hesitated. You see, I had not ridden a bicycle since I was teenager, over 40 years ago. Despite my hesitation, I agreed to undertake the tour by bike. After all, riding a bike must be just like “riding a bike” – if I had done it before, I could surely do it again.
Peter picked me up in his car outside the restaurant where I had lunch and drove me to his brewery. Her fixed me up with one of the brewery’s bikes and after some adjustment to the saddle we were ready to go.
Bike tour of Košice with Peter Škripko
My first time riding a bike in over 40 years
As with many European cities I have visited, Košice is bike-friendly, with ample bike paths. Peter proved to be a fantastic tour guide. This was the city of his birth, and he knew a great deal about its history. He also knew the best places to get a craft beer, and we had numerous refreshment stops during our 8km+ ride.
We made several stops for beer during our bike tour of Košice
Our penultimate stop before arriving back at the brewery was Camelot Restaurant, also owned by Peter. At Camelot, under Peter’s watchful eye, I had the opportunity at trying my hand at pouring (tapping) some Pilsner Urquell. Pilsner Urquell, of course, is famous as being the original pilsner beer, having been first brewed by brewmaster Josef Groll in 1842 in the city of Plzeň in the Czech Republic.
Peter knows a thing or two about Pilsner Urquell. In 2011, he won the national competition to become Slovakia’s Pilsner Urquell Master Bartender. The competition tested not only Peter’s ability to pour and serve a glass of Pilsner Urquell, but also his ability to communicate effectively with customers, and his knowledge of the history of the famous beer. Winning the national competition made Peter eligible to represent Slovakia in the international bartender competition, where he placed an impressive third.
In 2011, Peter became Slovakia’s Pilsner Urquell Master Bartender. This poster in Camelot highlights this achievement
There are three ways in which Pilsner Urquell can be served – Hladinka, Šnyt, and Mlíko. The standard pour is the Hladinka, which has “three fingers” of foam atop the lager. The Šnyt (pronounced ‘shnit’), is two parts beer, three parts foam and one part empty space at the top of the glass. The Mlíko is a glass of foam, with just a small amount of beer at the bottom. Each pour type is created to pair with different foods. The Hladinka pairs well with rich foods like duck, theŠnyt with hearty food like goulash or a burger, and the Mlíko with dessert.
The three ways in which Pilsner Urquell can be served – Hladinka (left), Šnyt (center), and Mlíko (right). Photo source: PilsnerUrquell.com.
Peter and his bartenders demonstrated the different pours to me and then gave me the opportunity to try my hand. You can judge how successful I was by the video posted here
Enjoying the fruits of my labor with two of Camelot’s wonderful bar staff
Enjoying another Pilsner Urquell with Peter
The following day I met up with Peter again, this time at his brewery. We were going on another tour. This time it was on foot, however, and involved going no further than the cellars of the brewery where Hostinec’s fermentation tanks are housed. Once there, I spent a glorious couple of hours with Peter talking about our common passion for the liquid nectar, while sampling at least a dozen different beers straight from the fermentation tanks.
The day after our bike tour, Peter gave me a tour (and a taste) of his production space
One of the dozen or so beers I sampled while touring Peter’s production space
As I said in my introduction to this blog entry, craft brewers are generally very generous individuals. But Peter Škripko took that generosity to a whole new level when he spent a significant chunk of time with me on my visit to Košice. Thank you, Peter, for being such a generous host.
Last month I spent four days in Uzbekistan. I went there to attend a conference on Sustainable Regional Development in Central Asia. Our host was the Samarkand Branch of Tashkent State University of Economics, located in the city of Samarkand.
I must admit that when I received the invitation to be one of the keynote speakers at the conference, my knowledge of Uzbekistan was close to non-existent. I knew that it had once been part of the USSR, and had become an independent country in 1991 following the political break up of the Soviet Union. Apart from that, I did not know much.
When your knowledge is sparse, the internet is your friend. A quick Google search revealed that Uzbekistan is a country of 35 million people in Central Asia. It shares a border with five countries – Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Afghanistan. It is also one of only two countries in the world that is double landlocked (the other is Liechtenstein -which I visited in 2018) A landlocked country is one that does not have direct access to an ocean or has a waterway that directly connects it to an ocean. A double landlocked country is one that is surrounded by countries that are themselves landlocked.
Uzbekistan is one of two countries in the world that is double landlocked
Occupied as early as the 8th century BC, the region that comprises modern-day Uzbekistan came under Russian control during the 18th century. The country’s name translates as ‘land of the Uzbeks’. Indeed, Uzbeks (a Turkic ethnic group native to Central Asia) comprise 84% of Uzbekistan’s population. With such an interesting history, and the fact that I had never been to Central Asia, meant that I was really looking forward to visiting this fascinating country.
My journey to Uzbekistan was quite a long one. I flew with Jet Blue from Detroit, MI to Boston, MA, where I connected with a Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul. In Istanbul, I met up with my colleagues, Tomaz from Portugal, Ana from Spain, and Eduardo and Fernando from Brazil. We were on the same flight from Istanbul to Samarkand. I had left Detroit at 3:28pm on May 2 and, thanks to the combination of long flights and lengthy layovers, did not arrive in Samarkand until 4:10am on May 4 – a total travel time in excess of 27 hours. This was the first time in my life I had taken two back-to-back overnight flights (Boston to Istanbul and Istanbul to Samarkand). Arriving in Samarkand was not the end of my journey, however. The five of us, along with another colleague, Hans from Sweden (who had arrived the previous day) drove to city of Bukhara, a four-hour drive west of Samarkand.
Bukhara is the fifth largest city in Uzbekistan, with a population of just under 250,000. The historic center of Bukhara is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city is located on the historic Silk Road, a network of Eurasian trade routes which operated from the 2nd century BC thru the mid-15th century. Over two thousand years old, Bukhara is described by UNESCO as “the most complete example of a medieval city in Central Asia, with an urban fabric that has remained largely intact.”
The ancient city of Bukhara
Bukhara at night
After an overnight stay in Bukhara we headed back to Samarkand. With a population of ~320,000, Samarkand is Uzbekistan’s third largest city. Like Bukhara, Samarkand has a rich history. Founded around 700 BC, it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities anywhere in the world. Invaded and destroyed by Genghis Khan and his Mongol army in 1200, it was one of the most important stops on 4,000-mile-long Silk Road.
Taking in the sights in Samarkand
Beautiful Samarkand
Although a predominantly Muslim country, alcohol is legal in Uzbekistan. Spirits (particularly vodka) accounts for ~57% of alcohol consumed by Uzbeks, reflecting the recent Russian influence on the country’s culture. Indeed, every evening at dinner, our host made sure that there was a bottle of Uzbek vodka, along with a bottle of Uzbek Cognac, on the table. Both were consumed straight – no mixers required. I usually do not drink vodka or cognac. Indeed, the last time I had consumed so much vodka was on a 2017 trip to Poland.
We had Uzbek vodka every evening with dinner
Uzbek Cognac
The conference dinners were one of the highlights of my visit to Uzbekistan
Beer accounts for approximately 34% of the alcohol consumed by Uzbeks, with wine accounting for the remaining 9%. In 2021, beer consumption per capita was a modest 7.8 liters. This compares with US per capita consumption levels that hovers around 70 liters.
The most common beer I encountered while in Uzbekistan was one called Sabrast. A European-style Pilsner, it is produced in a brewery owned by the Danish brewing giant Carlsberg in Uzbekistan’s capital city Tashkent. I also had the opportunity to try a Russian beer. At lunch, on the drive back from Bukhara to Samarkand, one of my hosts ordered a Baltika 7 for me, a Russian Pilsner-style beer, brewed under license by Carlsberg in Tashhent.
Sabrast – the most common beer I encountered in Uzbekistan
Enjoying a Sabrast beer with my friend and colleague Tomaz at a rooftop bar we discovered in Bukhara
Baltika 7, a Russian beer, with traditional Uzbek bread
While the Uzbek beer market is evolving, and craft beer is gaining in popularity among younger and more affluent beer drinkers, I never saw any while I was there. But perhaps I will on a future visit. I have had the good fortune to visit over 40 countries across 6 continents. Uzbekistan is right up there as one of the most fascinating that I have ever visited. I would love to return one day.
On the website of Amaracord, a craft brewery in the Italian town of Appechio, there is a graphic that proclaims, “Italians Do It Better“. They are, of course, referring to Italian craft beer. Whether Italian craft beer is better than that produced by craft brewers in other countries is, of course, a topic of debate. What I can say is that having visited Italy half-a-dozen times since 2013, the country does produce some excellent craft beer.
My most recent trip to Italy was just last month. I was there to visit the Gran Sasso Science Institute (GSSI) in L’Aquila where I made a presentation on craft beer at a workshop for PhD students and early career researchers. Part of my presentation addressed the issue of how craft breweries and craft beer are defined. Prior to my visit, I did quite a bit of research into the Italian craft beer industry, and discovered some interesting differences between how craft breweries and craft beer are defined in the United States and Italy respectively.
In the United States the generally accepted definition of a craft brewery is that provided by the Brewers Association (BA), a trade group representing the interests of craft brewers. According to the BA, to qualify as a craft, a brewery must meet three conditions:
It must be small. Annual production cannot exceed 6 million barrels (7 million hectoliters).
It must be independently owned. No more than 25 percent of the brewery can be owned or controlled (or equivalent economic interest) by a beverage alcohol industry member that is not itself a craft brewer.
It must brew beer and have a license to do so from The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).
This is the definition that is used by most academic researchers, including myself. Its widespread acceptance and usage are also reflective of the fact that there is no legal definition of a craft brewery in the United States.
One of the shortfalls of the BA definition, in my opinion, is that while it defines a craft beer producer (i.e., a brewery), it does not define craft beer. The closest that the BA gets to defining craft beer is that it is “generally made with traditional ingredients like malted barley; interesting and sometimes non-traditional ingredients are often added for distinctiveness“. This leads me to ponder the question – can a large multinational corporation like AB InBev produce craft beer? In the absence of a definition of craft beer, this is a difficult question to answer. It is, as I will show later, an important question.
As I was to discover from my research, the question of defining a craft brewery and craft beer has been addressed by the Italian government. In 2016, Italy’s lawmakers passed legislation that defined a craft brewery as follows:
It must be small. Annual production cannot exceed 200,000 hectoliters (169,000 barrels).
It must be legally and economically independent.
It must be intellectually independent. A brewery cannot operate under license to use the intellectual property rights of others.
It must be physically separate from other breweries. Each brewery must have its own distinct production space.
In addition to the above, the 2016 legislation defined two key characteristics of the product, craft beer. To qualify as craft, beer must be both unpasteurized and non-micro-filtered.
For several reasons, the Italian definition of craft brewery and craft beer is superior to what we have in the United States, First, it is a legal definition. Second, it defines the required characteristics of both the brewery and the beer.
While some may not be particularly interested in how craft brewery and craft beer are defined, or whether they are defined at all, I would suggest that having legal definitions of these two concepts is important.
In 2020, Byron Jackson and Mario Mena Jr. filed a class action lawsuit against the brewing giant AB InBev. At the center of the lawsuit was Veza Sur Brewing Co., which is located in Miami, FL. In patronizing the Veza Sur Brewing Co., and drinking their beer, Jackson and Mena Jr. believed that they were drinking craft beer brewed by a craft brewery. Upon discovering that Veza Sur was owned by AB In Bev, they filed a class action lawsuit. As the plaintiffs’ complaint stated:
“Defendants make and sell beer under the name Veza Sur. Veza Sur pretends to be a craft beer made in Miami and with Latin roots. In reality, it is simply another one of the dozens of brands made by the largest brewer in the world, Anheuser-Busch. It has no authentic Latin roots, and is not even made in Miami. Defendants’ misrepresentations have deceived the Plaintiffs who thought they were purchasing a craft beer that was made in Miami by a small brewery”.
For purposes of full disclosure, I was retained by the legal firm (Twig, Trade, & Tribunal) representing the plaintiffs as an expert witness in this case. In August 2021, the lawsuit was dismissed by U.S. district court judge in Miami, FL. In other words, it never went to trial.
In dismissing the case, Judge Beth Bloom stated that the “Brewer’s Association’s definition of craft beer is but one definition of a term that is otherwise widely used and well known in day-to-day conversation. However, what a certain individual might determine to qualify as “craft” beer is necessarily a subjective one, depending on the individual’s tastes and interests.”
Judge Bloom’s statement was recognition of the fact that there is no legal definition of what constitutes either a craft brewery or craft beer. Of course, the definitional issue was only one aspect of this lawsuit. And so, even if there was a legal definition of craft brewery and/or craft beer in the United States, this would not have guaranteed a successful outcome for the plaintiffs. Indeed, if you read Judge Bloom’s opinion, it is unlikely that a legal definition of craft brewery and/or craft beer would have resulted in a positive outcome for the plaintiffs.
While a legal definition of craft brewery and/or craft beer may not have helped the plaintiffs in their case against AB InBev, it did get me thinking about the issue of having a legal definition of either or both of these. If a legal definition did exist, as it does in Italy, it would certainly un-muddy what are currently some very muddy waters. For example, is Shock Top, a Belgian Wheat beer brewed by Anheuser Busch, a craft beer? Can a multinational corporation produce craft beer? Is Space Dust IPA, brewed by Elysian Brewing Company a craft beer? Is Elysian a craft brewery. Elysian Brewing Company was established in 1995 in Seattle, WA by Dave Buhler, Joe Bisacca, and Dick Cantwell. In 2015, AB InBev purchased Elysian Brewing Company, with the result that the latter lost its status as a craft brewery with the Brewers Association. All the above questions, in the absence of a legal definition, are difficult to answer.
While I was at Rome Airport, waiting to board my bus to L’Aquila, I decided to have a beer. I opted for a beer called Birra ichnusa. From its label, it looks like a craft beer. It is also unfiltered. Brewed on the Italian island of Sardinia, Birra Inchusa has been around since 1912. Despite its appearance (on at least three criteria), it does not meet the Italian government’s definition of a craft beer. First, since 1986, the brewery has been owned by Heineken. Second, the brewery produces over 400,000 hectoliters of beer annually (making it too large to qualify as craft). Third, the beer is pasteurized.
I enjoyed a Birra Ichnusa at Rome Airport while waiting for my bus to L’Aquila
Whether we will ever have a legal definition of craft brewery and craft beer in the United States, I have no idea. If we did it would certainly bring clarity to a very unclear situation.
I just returned from a six-day trip to Italy. I was at the Gran Sasso Science Institute (GSSI) in L’Aquila where I participated in a workshop for PhD students and early career researchers in the fields of Economic Geography and Regional Science. This was my fourth visit to L’Aquila since 2017. Located a two-hour bus-ride east of Rome, L’Aquila is a city of just under 72,000 people. It made international news in 2009 when it was hit with a 6.3 magnitude earthquake, whose epicenter was just outside the city; an earthquake that was responsible for 308 deaths.
In addition to the workshop, I was also invited to participate in a local food and beer festival in Lecce nei Marsi. Located just over an hour drive southeast of L’Aquila, Lecce ne Marsi is a small community of just over 1,600 people. Lecce ne Marsi is located in what the Italian Government has designated as an Inner Area. Inner Areas are parts of Italy that, because of their geographic isolation, have limited access to essential public services such as health care, education, and transportation. They are areas that are suffering from the out migration of younger people, resulting in an ageing population. An estimated 22% of the Italian population live in Inner Areas. In response to the challenges facing Inner Areas, the Italian Government, in 2012, developed the National Strategy for Inner Areas (Strategia Nazionale per le Aree Interne). Known by the acronym SNAI, the goal is to “counteract marginalisation and demographic decline” of these areas. One of the ways in which the SNAI tries to do this is through the protection and promotion of the natural and cultural assets of Inner Areas.
Lecce nei MarsI (indicated by the B on the map) is just over an hour drive from L’Aquila (indictaed by the A on the map)
Welcome to Lecce nei Marsi
In an effort to promote its cultural assets, as well as those of twelve surrounding communities, Lecce nei Marsi decided to organize and host a festival promoting local food and local beer. Prior to its start, the Mayor of Lecce nei Marsi, Augusto Barile, held a short two-hour mini conference titled “Typical Products: The Strength of the Internal Area”. As the festival coincided with my visit to L’Aquila, Mayor Barile invited me to give a short presentation on craft beer. The mayor’s interest in craft beer was driven by the fact that a nearby micro-brewery, Beer Park Brewery, produced a beer whose ingredients include locally-harvested faggiola. Translated into English, faggiola are beechnuts (the fruit of the beech tree). The mayor was particularly interested to learn about beer tourism and how it could be used as part of a broader culinary tourism initiative to boost the local economy. Other presenters at the mini conference included Alessandra Faggian, my colleague from GSSI, the President of the national park within which Lecce ne Marsi is located, local elected officials, and even the local priest (who recognized the importance of economic development to the region). The audience were local residents and the mayors of the twelve surrounding communities. It was a standing-room only audience in the town’s small council chambers. The event was promoted as a Alogastronomia Festival. Alogastronomia was a neologism created in 2015 by the organizers of a local food and beer festival in the town of Appechio, Italy, from “merging of two words: ale, a kind of fermented beer, and gastronomy, . . . the art of regulating the stomach.” As such, it indicates a particular relationship between beer and food.
Promotional materials for the local food and beer festival in Lecce ne Marsi
It was a standing-room only crowd in the small council chambers of Lecce nei Marsi
Talking about the Italian craft beer revolution in Lecce ne Marsi (with the assistance of my wonderful translator Concetta)
Beer tourism is an increasingly popular activity. This is particularly the case in the United States, where the craft brewing industry is more developed than most other countries. However, the potential for beer tourism in Europe is, in my opinion, also significant. Indeed, there are already a number of travel companies who offer packaged vacations focused on visiting breweries and tasting beer in a variety of European countries, including Belgium, Germany, the United Kingdom, and yes, Italy. These tours tend to focus on larger cities such as Prague, Brussels, and Rome. This leads to the question – can small, geographically isolated communities, such as Lecce nei Marsi capitalize on the growing interest in traveling to taste beer? I believe that they can. However, it will require significant coordination and collaboration on the part of local communities. Attracting people to visit geographically isolated places such as Lecce ne Marsi will also require that non-beer assets be promoted. This may include local food, sites of historical significance, and events and festivals like the one that I attended.
The good news is that there is already an existing organization, the National Association of Beer Cities (Città della Birra Associazione Nazionale), that can perhaps be a source of advice and also used for promotional and branding purposes. Established in 2015, and headquartered in the small town of Appechio (also located in an Italian Inner Area), the goal of the association is to promote beer tourism. As of now, most of the breweries participating in association activities are located in the Marche region of Italy. However, as it is a national association it should be open to assisting breweries in other regions of Italy. Beer and food tourism cannot solve all of the socio-economic challenges facing communities like Lecce nei Marsi. However, they do represent one opportunity that such communities should consider. Indeed, the aforementioned Appechio perhaps offers a model for what is possible for places like Lecce nei Marsi. Appechio has had an annual Alogastrnomia Festival since 2015, whivh has evolved into a three-day event that attracts over 4,000 visitors. Apecchio has also done an excellent job of promoting the region’s other assets such as outdoor activities (biking, hiking, horseback riding etc.). And they have a very impressive website which promotes the region’s assets.
The goal of the National Association of Beer Cities is to promote beer tourism
By the time the mini conference had wrapped up, the food and beer festival was well underway. Each of the thirteen communities had stands offering a food that was typical of their particular place. Baked lamb, frogs’ legs, olive oil, truffles, and ricotta cheese were some of the culinary delights on offer. When it comes to food, I am not particularly adventurous, but I did take the opportunity provided by the festival to taste frogs’ legs for the first time.
Lecce ne Marsi provided a beautiful setting for a local food and beer festival
I had the opportunity to sample local frogs’ legs
My colleague Alessandra sampling some locally produced olive oil
Gioia Dei Marsi was one of thirteen towns participating in the local food and beer festival
While the food was wonderful, I was most interested in sampling the local beer, especially the one made with the local faggiola (beech nuts). Moricento, is an English Brown Ale, and is named after the nearby beech forests from which the beech nuts were harvested. Not only did I get to taste the beer, but I also got to meet both the owner of the brewery, Marco D’Aurelio, and brewer, Luca Fusè. The opportunity to meet both brewery owners and brewers is one aspect of the craft brewing industry that I really enjoy and appreciate. To be able to shake the hand and chat with those responsible for producing the beer that you are drinking is a true privilege.
The ingredients of Moricento beer include beech nuts harvested from local beech trees
With Marco D’Aurelio, owner of Beer Park Brewery
Sampling Moricento beer with brewer Luca Fusè (far right)
This was the first local food and beer festival in Lecce nei Marsi. The plan is to make this an annual event. It will be interesting to see how this event evolves in future years, and what other initiatives Lecce nei Marsi and its neighboring communities develop in their efforts to improve the socio-economic environment of both them and their neighbors.
A few weeks ago, I travelled to Maryland. The reason for my trip was to attend a memorial service for my step-Father-in-Law, who had passed away unexpectedly earlier this year. My wife and drove to Maryland on a Thursday. As we were picking up my oldest daughter, who was flying in from Cincnnati, OH the next morning, we stayed at a hotel right next to BWI Airport.
In preparation for the trip, I googled breweries near to where we would be staying. I was pleased to discover that Thursday night’s hotel was only a couple of miles from the recently opened Guinness Brewery. Opened in 2018, it was the first Guinness brewery to operate in the United States since the last one closed in 1954. That brewery was near New York City and had been opened primarily to quench the thirst of soldiers returning from World War II. Guinness had figured American soldiers who had served in Europe would have a craving for the stout they’d tasted overseas. It appears that Guinness had overestimated consumer interest in their product and the brewery closed in 1954 due to lack of demand.
I had visited the Guinness Storehouse (immersive experience) in Dublin, Ireland in 2015, so I was keen to visit the Baltimore brewery. The brewery is not actually located in the city of Baltimore, but rather in nearby Halethorpe, about 10 miles southwest of downtown Baltimore.
Before visiting the brewery, I had dinner at a well-known chain restaurant next to our hotel. As it was the evening before St. Patrick’s Day, I decided to have a Guinness Stout. When my bottle of Guinness arrived, I noticed that it was brewed in Dublin. I had hoped that it would have been brewed at the nearby brewery, but as I was to later discover later the iconic brew is not produced at the Baltimore facility.
In an interview with NPR, Peter Simson (head brewer at Guinness’s Dublin brewery) stated “I think Guinness stout is such an iconic stout, it has such strong links back to Dublin and back to Ireland, that it would feel wrong to take it away from Ireland and to brew it over here”.
Some of the beer’s available at the Guinness Brewery in Baltimore
While not brewing Guinness Stout, the Baltimore brewery does brew an impressive range of other beers. These included a Blonde Ale, a Honey Ale, and several IPAs and Stouts. On my visit I opted for their Galaxy IPA (brewed with Australian Galaxy hops) and a brew from their Hop Exploration Series, a French IPA (brewed with French malt and hops).
Exploration and discovery are very much part of the brewery’s modus operandi. The brewery has a 10-barrel pilot system, which is used for smaller experimental batches. As noted on the brewery’s website, “We focus our attention on putting our spin on classic styles, introducing new ones, and utilizing both historic and new age ingredients and processes to create an exciting, ever-changing beer program”. A 100-hectoliter brewing system allows the brewery to produce larger batches of selected beers for off-site distribution. This is the second pilot initiative started by Guinness. In 2015, they opened the Guiness Open Gate Brewery, in close proximity to their main brewery in Dublin, where you can sample “experimental beers you won’t find anywhere else”. In producing experimental beers that you can only taste on-site, Guinness is functioning in similar fashion to a craft brewery.
Guinness is no longer a stand-alone company. In 1997, it merged with Grand Metropolitan, a leisure, manufacturing and property conglomerate headquartered in the United Kingdom, to form a new company called Diageo. Diageo spent $90 million to convert the historic Calvert distillery (1933-2015) into the present-day Baltimore brewery.
Diageo spent $90 million to convert a distillery into the Guinness Brewery
As you enter the grounds of the brewery, there is a sign that says “Welcome to the only Guinness brewery in the USA”. While true, that sign will soon need to be removed. In the summer of this year, Gunness will open its second brewery, which will be housed in a former Pennsylvania Railroad Terminal building in Chicago, Il. From available media reports, it appears that the Chicago facility will not be as large as that in Baltimore. It will have a small pilot brewery, which will produce small batch and experimental brews. It will also have a taproom, restaurant, and outdoor patio space.
The Baltimore brewery is a multi-level facility. From what I could tell, brewing is done on the ground level, with the taproom and gift shop on the second floor. The taproom is spacious and the staff attentive. The gift shop has all the usual items you might expect – t-shirts, ball caps, refrigerator magnets, etc. The brewery also offers a number of tours and experiences, including a barrel-aged tasting experience and a guided tour of their pilot brewery.
Entrance to the Guinness Brewery in Baltimore
Inside the Guinness taproom in Baltimore
Just as I was about to post this blog entry, a friend texted me a link to a news story that Guinness was going to close part of its Baltimore production facility. Seventy-nine workers will be laid off. On the positive note, the taproom, restaurant, and the pilot brewery will stay open, thus retaining approximately 100 jobs. A spokesman for the company said, “After careful consideration and analysis of our supply footprint, we have made the difficult decision to permanently close our manufacturing facility” in Baltimore. Furthermore, “in order to ensure long term sustainable growth for Diageo, we are optimizing our existing operations across North America to meet evolving consumer preferences.” The two most interesting phrases from that statement are “supply footprint” and “evolving consumer preferences”. The flagship beer of the Baltimore brewery is Baltimore Blonde. Baltimore Blonde has been brewed in Baltimore since the opening of the Guinness facility. The brew has been around since 2014, however. Back then it was called Guinness Blonde and was brewed in Latrobe, PA. It may not be doing as well in the marketplace as Guinness had hoped. The owner of a Baltimore liquor store noted that Baltimore Blonde is not a top seller. On the popular beer rating site Untappd, it has a rating of 3.56, which is below 3.71, the average Untappd rating found by one study. So perhaps the brewery was not selling enough of its flagship beer to justify a dedicated brewing facility. Although Baltimore Blonde will no longer be brewing Baltimore Blonde, local economic development agents are keen to make sure that its producton remains in Baltimore. Continued production of the Lager will likely be sub-contracted to another brewery, with Baltimore’s Heavy Seas brewery being mentioned as a possibility. While the downscaling of production at Guinness’s Baltimore brewery may leave a bad taste in the mouth of local economic development officials, keeping production local might soothe some of their disappointment.
In October, I spent 4 days in Osnabrück, Germany. I was there attending the annual conference of the International Geographical Union’s Commission on the Dynamics of Economic Spaces. I flew into Frankfurt – there is a direct flight from Detroit – and then took the train to Osnabrück. It was a 3.5-hour train journey from Frankfurt Airport to Osnabrück.
Osnabrück, with a population of just over 168,000 is in Lower Saxony. Historically, it is famous for being one of the cities (the other being Münster) where the Peace of Westphalia was negotiated, thus ending the Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). As a result of its part in these negotiations, the city adopted the title Friedensstadt (“City of Peace”). The city was heavily bombed during the Second World War, requiring large parts of it to be rebuilt. Today, Osnabrück is a welcoming and vibrant city, and a great place to spend a couple of days.
Inside Osnabrück City Hall where the Peace of Westphalia was negotiated
I arrived in Osnabrück in the afternoon before the start of the conference and thought that this would be an ideal time to visit the city’s only brewery – Hausbrauerei Rampendahl. The brewery was one of the few buildings in Osnabrück to avoid damage during the Second World War.
Hausebrauerei Rampendahl
Hausebrauerei Rampendahl
Like most German breweries, the beers at Rampendahl are brewed in accordance with the German Purity Law (the Reinheitsgebot) of 1516. This means that all of Rampendahl beers contain only four ingredients – water, barley, hops, and yeast. On the evening that I visited, three different beers were available – a Dunkel Lager, a Weizen (Wheat), and a Helles Lager. Needless to say, I tried all three. Having only three of the brewery’s beers to choose from was something of a different experience from the vast choice that is available at most American craft breweries that I visit. I am not sure if such a limited range of beer styles is common in German breweries, or if this was simply an exception. Perhaps one of my readers with knowledge of German breweries can answer this question for me. As I write this entry, on its website the brewery lists four beers that it has available – Rampendahl Special, Rampendahl Hell, Rampendahl Wheat, and Rampendahl Maibock.
Dunkel Lager
Weizen
Helles Lager
The brewery’s website has a short history of the brewery. The translation from German to English is such that it is difficult to clearly identify brewery’s back story. It appears that it may have once been a townhouse. The date of the building’s construction is not listed, but at least part of the building dates to 1177. Assuming this to be correct, the date at which it became a brewery is not provided. The brewery got its name from a group of disgruntled citizens, who called themselves the Rampendahl Society. Rampendahl was the owner a local restaurant where the Society met to discuss their grievances over beer and wine. In 1430, the Society led an uprising against Osnabruck’s elite (wealthy merchants). The nature of their grievances is not specified, but the uprising failed, and its leaders executed.
As I noted above, I was in Osnabrück to attend a conference. As part of the conference, we had dinner in a venue called Lagerhalle. The literal translation of “Lagerhalle” is “Warehouse”. Lager, of course is one of the two main types of beer (the other being Ale). The word Lager is a German word, which means “to store“. Lager can take between 4 and 8 weeks to produce, during which time it has to be stored (a stage in the brewing process called lagering) at the appropriate temperature. The Lagerhalle, where we had dinner is a community cultural venue and event space which puts on a wide variety of programing, including cinema, theatre, cabaret, lectures etc. Housed in a former hardware warehouse. the use of Lagerhalle as a community center dates from the mid-1970s and was a response to the youth center movement that swept Germany at that time.
Lagerhalle in Osnabrück
Finally, during one of my walks through the streets of Osnabrück, I came across Bierstraße (Beer Street). Given Germany’s love of beer (its citizens consume over 90 gallons per capita per year) it should not be surprising to see a street in a small German city thus named.
As a Professor of Geography at the University of Toledo one of the classes that I teach is called People, Places, and Society. Ostensibly it is an introduction to Human Geography course. During the first few weeks of the semester I spend quite a bit of time introducing the students to basic geographic concepts – things like absolute and relative location, spatial distribution, spatial interaction, spatial diffusion, distance-decay, etc. Of all the basic geographic concepts. absolute location is probably the most straightforward and easiest to understand.
Absolute location is the location that something occupies according to some agreed upon system. One of the most common methods that we use to measure the location of a place is by using lines of latitude and longitude. – think of these as “imaginary” lines drawn on the surface of the Earth.
Lines of Latitude and Longitude
Lines of latitude (also called parallels) run in an East-West direction. The Equator is 0 degrees latitude. All lines of latitude are numbered between 0 degrees and 90 degrees latitude and are designated as either North or South, depending upon how far they are north or south of the Prime Meridian. The North Pole is 90 degrees North, while the South Pole is 90 degrees South.
Each place on the surface of the Earth can be precisely located according to how far (north or south) they are from the Equator. So for example, New York City, NY is 40 degrees north of the Equator, while Sydney, Australia is 33 degrees south of the Equator. Toledo, OH, where I live, is 41 degrees north of the Equator (just a tad further north than New York City).
Lines of longitude (also called meridians) run in a North-South direction and connect the North and South Pole. All meridians designated as either East or West are numbered between 0 degrees and 180 degrees, depending upon how far they are either east or west of the Prime Meridian. The Prime Meridian. The Prime Meridian is the internationally agreed upon starting point for numbering meridians. It runs through the Royal Observatory at Greenwich in the United Kingdom and is labeled 0 degrees longitude. The meridian on the opposite side of the globe from Prime Meridian is 180 degrees longitude.
The Prime Meridian in Greenwich, United Kingdom
Each place on the surface of the Earth can be precisely located according to how far (east or west) they are from the Prime Meridian. The aforementioned New York City, NY is 74 degrees west of the Prime Meridian, while Sydney, Australia is 151 degrees east of the Prime Meridian. Toledo, OH, is 83 degrees west of the Prime Meridian.
So now we have all the information we need to identify the absolute location of these three cities:
New York City, NY – 40 degrees north, 74 degrees west
Sydney, Australia – 33 degrees south, 115 degrees east
Toledo, OH – 41 degrees north, 83 degrees west
The last time that I was teaching this material to my students, I started to wonder about the furthest north, south, east, and west that I had travelled to visit a brewery. So I pulled up a map on my computer screen, and here is what I came up with:
Nya Carnegiebryggeriet (New Carnegie Brewery), Stockholm, Sweden (59 degrees north)
At 59 degrees north, Nya Carnegiebryggeriet (New Carnegie Brewery) in Stockholm, Sweden is the most northerly brewery I have visited. My visit occurred in January 2016. I was in Stockholm attending a conference at the Royal Institute of Technology. Opened in 2014, the brewery is a joint venture between New York’s Brooklyn Brewery and Danish brewing giant Carlsberg. The brewery is housed in an old 1930s lightbulb factory in the Hammarby Sjöstad district of the city. Hammarby Sjöstad (translated as Hammarby Lake City) is an area of Stockholm that has gained fame as an exemplar of eco-friendly urban redevelopment. The brewery has contributed to the redevelopment of the neighborhood. The brewery’s name, Nya Carnegie, is a nod to Carnegie Porter, a classic Swedish beer. Carnegie Porter traces its origins to 1836 when Scottish businessman David Carnegie Jr. (1813-1890) purchased the Lorent sugar refinery and brewery in the Klippan neighborhood of Gothenburg.
Al old lightbulb factory is home to Nya Carnegiebryggeriet
Nya Carnegiebryggeriet has contributed to the redevelopment of the the Hammarby Sjöstad district of Stockholm
A ferry arrives and docks close to Nya Carnegiebryggeriet
At 41 degrees south and 175 degrees east, Montheith’s Brewery in Greymouth, New Zealand qualifies as both the most southerly and the most easterly brewery that I have visited. I traveled to Greymouth on December 2014. I had been in Christchurch, New Zealand attending the annual conference of the Australia-New Zealand Regional Science Association. I had a couple of days after the conference was finished, so decided to visit Greymouth. Christchurch and Greymouth are on opposite coasts of New Zealand’s South Island. With a population of ~8,300, it is the largest town on New Zealand’s west coast. Rather than drive or travel by bus, I decided to take the TranzAlpine train. Identified by Lonely Planet as one of the world’s most amazing train journeys I was keen to take it. I was not disappointed. The 139 mile (223 kilometer) journey, which takes four and a half hours one way took me through the fertile Canterbury Plains and the spectacular southern Alps.
Greymouth is the largest city of the west coast of New Zealand’s South Island
The TranzAlpine Train
Some of the scenery enjoyed from the TranzAlpine Train
Some of the scenery enjoyed from the TranzAlpine Train
Established during the West Coast Gold Rush of the 1860s, Greymouth, transitioned into a major coal mining and forestry center. Most of the jobs in these two sectors have disappeared and for a number of decades the town has been struggling to revitalize its struggling economy .
After checking into my overnight accommodation I headed for Monteith’s Brewery. I would be one of the 35,000 visitors who visit the brewery annually. Founded in 1868, the brewery was originally family-owned, and is named after the founder Stewart Monteith . In 1970, the brewery became part of Dominion Breweries Group, who were acquited by Heineken in 2013.
It is a brewery with something of a tumultuous history. Two times in past, the owners of the brewery have announced the cessation of brewing operations in Greymouth. The first was in 2001, when closure of the brewery was announced. Such was the public outcry, the brewery was re-opened four days later. The second occasion was in November 2020, when, DB Breweries announced that it would cease brewing operations in Greymouth, citing the uncertainty created by COVID-19 as well as the high cost of transporting raw materials to and the finished product from the brewery. The brewery’s onsite restaurant would remain open. Despite the closure, beer drinkers could still buy Monteith’s beer as it is brewed at two other locations (Auckland and Timaru) in New Zealand. Not surprisingly, the local council were not happy when hearing DB’s plans for the brewery. Indeed Mayor Tania Gibson of asked DB to consider handing over the brewery to the people of Grey District. In January of 2021, DB and the local council reached an agreement whereby the brewery’s bottling plant would be given to the district.
Monteith’s Brewery
Kona Brewing Company, Hawaii, USA(155 degrees west)
At 155 degrees west, Kona Brewing Company in Kailua Kona on Hawaii’s Big Island is the most westerly brewery I have visited. I visited Kona Brewing in February 2016, while in Hawaii attending the annual conference of the Western Regional Science Association. Kona Brewing Company was founded in 1994. When I visited the brewery in 2016, Kona Brewing Company was a member of the Craft Brew Alliance family of craft breweries. Craft Brew Alliance, established in 2008 with the merger of Redhook Ale Brewery and Widmer Brothers, acquired Kona Brewing Company from its original owners (Cameron Healy and Spoon Khalsa) in October 2010. In December 2010, AB InBev purchased a 32.2% share of Craft Brew Alliance . In 2020, AB InBev purchased the outstanding 67.8% share of Craft Brew Alliance. In order to not be in violation of Federal Anti-Trust laws, Kona Brewing had to be sold, with the brewery being purchased by PV Brewing Partners, a Delaware limited liability company headquartered in Kansas.
Kona Brewing on Hawaii’s Big Island
As a brewery, Kona is probably best known for its Big Wave Golden Ale, Longboard Island Lager, and Firerock Pale Ale. You may have seen a number of Kona Brewing’s beers for sale at your local liquor or grocery store. If you live on the mainland, however, the Kona beer that you purchase was not brewed in Hawaii. Partly to save on the costs of transporting beer from Hawaii, Kona beer is brewed on the mainland United States. I recently enjoyed a bottle of Kona’s Longboard Lager and on the label it indicated that this particular bottle was brewed in one of three locations – Fort Collins, CO, Portland, OR, or Portsmouth, NH. The listing of mainland brewing locations is an outcome of a 2017 class action lawsuit brought against Kona’s then owners, Craft Brew Alliance, for deceiving customers on the mainland into thinking their beer was produced in Hawaii. In 2022, Kona opened a new 30,000-square-foot brewery that can produce 100,000 barrels of beer annually This is ten times the production capacity of the brewery that I visited.
Some of the beers on tap when I visited Kona Brewing in 2016
Map of the three breweries
Further Reading
Walton, Sara, Shane Grice and Bevan Catley. 2003. The Monteith’s affair: Bitter to the loyal end. Journal of the Australian and New Zealand Academy of Management, Voulme 9, Issue 2, pages 69-74. DOI: https://doi.org/10.5172/jmo.2003.9.2.69
Last month I participated in an online webinar on “Public House: The Culture and Society of the London Pub“. It was organized and hosted by the The Society of Architectural Historians of Great Britain, an organization which brings together academics, architects, heritage experts, and others with an interest in the history of the built environment. The presentation on London pubs was made by Dr David Knight of the Royal College of Art in London. During his presentation, Dr Knight identified over a dozen different types of London pub. Some types, such as Coaching Inns, no longer exist, while others such as the Community Pub are alive and well. Of the different types of pub that Dr Knight mentioned during his presentation, one in particular peaked my curiosity – Desi Pubs. When I first saw the term I thought that perhaps “Desi” was short for “Destination” and that a Desi Pub was a type of pub that was a destination for visitors to a city – for example, The Temple Bar in Dublin, Ireland. As it turns out, I was wrong in my assumption. A Desi Pub is, in fact, a colloquial term for a pub which is owned or managed by a landlord of Indian origin. In a Desi Pub, along with traditional English Ale, you can enjoy a lunch comprising traditional Indian cuisine. This got me curious, so I thought I’d do some research into the origins and current status of Britain’s Desi pubs.
Desi Pubs have their origins in the 1960s, and were primarily a response to racism experienced by British Asians. Desi Pubs provided a “safe space” where British Asians could enjoy a couple of pints of beer, and some traditional (primarily Punjabi) cuisine, without fear of harassment. This harassment was experienced first hand by the American civil rights activist, Malcom X, who visited the Blue Gate pub in Smeth
The term “Desi” means “local“, “home”, or “from the country” and is geographically linked to the south Asian countries of India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. There are over 4.3 million individuals of Asian ancestry living in the UK. This constitutes 7% of the U.K. population, making them the second largest ethnic/racial group after Whites. Most of Britain’s Asian residents have their family roots in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. British residents of Indian, Pakistani, and Bangladeshi origin constitute 2.3%, 1.9%, and 0.7% of Britain’s population respectively. India’s Punjab region, Pakistan’s Mirpur District, and Bangladesh’s Sylhet region, in particular, were the main sources of Asian migrants to Britain in the post-1947 period. Britain, of course, developed strong ties with the Indian sub-continent as a result of both trading and its colonial exploits. Post World War II labor shortages in the United Kingdom provided an opportunity for Indians, Pakistanis, and Bangladeshis who sought a better life outside of their country of birth.
As a student at the University of Glasgow, Scotland between 1981 and 1985, I was well aware of the presence of the city’s Pakistani and Indian populations. Indian restaurants were (and still are) numerous and hugely popular and were often my restaurant of choice before heading our for an evening of drinking beer with friends. Newsagents and convenience stores, many owned by Pakistanis, were equally ubiquitous. Every Wednesday, I’d pop into the same one and purchase a copy of The Celtic View, the weekly newspaper of the soccer team I supported. It was only after doing this for a couple of months that I discovered that the owner of the store, Hassan, supported Celtic’s arch enemies, Rangers. After that discovery there was a lot of friendly banter back and forth between myself and Hassan every time I frequented his store. But I digress.
While many curry houses are branded as “Indian” restaurants, most are in fact owned by immigrants and/or their descendants from Bangladesh. Indeed, between 80% and 90% of British curry-house owners can trace their roots back to the Bangladeshi city of Sylhet. The Red Lion is one example of a Desi Pub. Located in Birmingham, England it has been in the hands of the Purewal family since 1997. The Red Lion website emphasize the quality of their food, noting that “the standard of food matches that of high end Indian restaurants”. The Red Lion also boasts that “our chefs are well experienced, coming from some of the top restaurants in India”.
Part of the Red Lion’s menu
While the clientele of Britain’s original Desi Pubs were primarily from Britain’s Asian community, today they function as integrated, multi-ethnic, spaces. One observer notes that Desi Pubs are “a celebration of multiculturalism . . . offering Indian food to white and brown customers alike”, while another suggests that they are an “East meets West story, where the classic English pub with its ale, darts and dominoes meets Punjabi food and Bhangra”. According to Bera Mahli, who runs the Red Cow and Grill in Smethwick (just outside Birmingham) with his brother Gamy, “the curries served up in old boozers are now bringing people together in a positive way – rather than be used as a negative marker to highlight racial differences.”
Some Desi Pubs have become what are termed Third Places (community gathering places). The aforementioned Bera Mahli observes that, “the pub is more a community centre than anything else – for everyone. One of the big changes is seeing Asian families in the pubs. Back when I was younger, pubs in the Indian community were just for men only. These days as they are no longer places just to drink, we have Asian girls, aunties and grandmas”. The aforementioned Red Lion pub in Birmingham promotes itself as “an easy going and family friendly pub“
For several decades, the United Kingdom has seen a decrease in the number of pubs, as closures have outnumbered openings. A 2014 report showed that the United Kingdom had lost around 21,000 pubs since 1980, with most closures having occurred since 2006. Reasons for this decline include the smoking ban, increased taxation on alcohol, and a reduction in alcohol consumption. Many of Britain’s Desi Pubs are former pubs that had closed and have, in fact, been resurrected by their Asian owners. In addition to saving some old British pubs, the owners of the Desi Pubs may become one of the last bastions of authentic Indian cuisine. The authenticity of the great British curry is under attack.
In a previous blog entry I wrote about Pravda Brewery, a craft brewery in the Ukrainian city of Lviv. Faced with an invasion by the Russian military the brewery transformed at least part of its production space into a Molotov Cocktail factory. It was the brewery’s contribution to local resistance efforts. The bottles that were used in the assembly of the Molotov Cocktails were those that, under normal circumstances, would be filled with a Dry-hopped Golden Ale (ABV 8.0%) called “Putin Huilo”, which translates as “Putin is a Dickhead“. The label has a picture of a naked Putin sitting on a throne.
The label from Putin Huilo beer from Pravda Brewery
Putin is not the only political figure to appear on the label of one of Pravda’s beers. The brewery also produces an American-style Stout called Obama Hope, a Belgian-style Wit called Frau Ribbentrop, and a Mexican Imperial Lager called Trump. The labels of these three beers have pictures of former U.S. President Barack Obama, former German Chancellor Angela Merkel, and former U.S. President Donald Trump on them respectively. All the labels carry political messages.
The label on Obama Hope refers to President Obama as “a symbol of democracy and a guarantor of the global justice” As such. one of the President’s main tasks is to “safeguard peace and to prevent a new aggressor from starting World War III”. The message on the label goes on to reference Russia’s 2014 annexation of Crimea. Pravda was clearly hoping (the beer is named Obama Hope after all) that the American President would step in and assist Ukraine in its fight against the Russian aggressor. Referencing the aforementioned invasion, the label states, “Obama is still hesitating to provide real help to the Ukrainians in fighting it”. In what could perhaps be interpreted as some words of warning to President Obama, the label concludes its message with the statement that Obama “has all the chances to go down in history as the one who got it all wrong”
The label from Obama Hope beer from Pravda Brewery
The political message on the Frau Ribbentrop label is clear. The brewery is critical on Chancellor Merkel’s stance on the the 2014 Russian invasion of Ukraine’s Donbas Region, particularly her refusal to supply Ukraine with weapons to fight the Russian invaders and her insistence that the Ukrainian government hold direct talks with Donbas separatists, with a view to a negotiated settlement. Many Ukrainians were irked by Merkel’s position and inundated her Facebook page with comments, including some that suggested she was a modern-day von Ribbentrop. The name Ribbentrop is a reference to Joachim von Ribbentrop who was the German Foreign Minister between 1938 and 1945, and who played a key role in the negotiation, on behalf of Germany, of a number of key treaties. These included the “Pact of Steel” that was signed between Germany and Italy on May 22, 1939 and established a formal alliance between the two countries and linked them politically and militarily. Von Ribbentrop also negotiated the German-Soviet Non-aggression Pact of August 23, 1939, which according to one source “cleared the way for Hitler’s attack on Poland on Sept. 1, 1939, thus beginning World War II”. As far as Pravda is concerned, both Merkel and von Ribbentrop were ut from the same cloth and were complicit in facilitating conflict in Europe.
The label from Frau Ribbentrop beer from Pravda Brewery
Not surprisingly, Donald Trump, the 45th President of the United States also has a Pravda beer named after him. The beer is, appropriately, a Mexican Imperial Lager with an ABV of 7.2%. The label refers to Mr. Trump as “President of the Divided States of America” (a characterization borrowed from Time Magazine when they named Mr. Trump as their Person of the Year in 2016). The label calls President Trump “the symbol for the final era of true politicians” (not quite sure what is meant by that), while also labeling him as both a “sexist” and an “ideal family man”. In the background, an individual holds “Free Melania: placard.
The label from Putin Trump beer from Pravda Brewery
Pravda is not the only brewery to have brewed a beer inspired by President Putin. In 2014, the irreverent Scottish brewery, BrewDog brewed a double IPA which it named, Hello, My Name Is Vladimir. 2014 was the year that the Russian city of Sochi hosted the Winter Olympic Games. In 2013, a new Russian law that banned the promotion of “non-traditional sexual relations” to minors came into effect. The passage of this law was the catalyst for a number of gay rights protests across the world. Many of these protests occurred a few before the start of the Sochi Olympics. BrewDog chose to join the protests by brewing a beer. The label on the beer had four images of President Putin, all showing the Russian President wearing lipstick. The messaging on the label pokes further fun at President Putin, with statements such as “I am 100% hetero and will pass laws to prove it”. The bottom of the label contains the warning that the beer is “not for gays”. James Watt, co-owner of BrewDog, sent a case of the beer to President Putin at the Kremlin. No one is quite sure what President Putin thought of the beer.
The label from Hello. My Name is Vladimir beer from BrewDog
BrewDog sent President Putin a case of their Hello. My Name is Vladimir beer to President Putin
In response to the Russian invasion of Ukraine a number of American craft breweries produced beers that featured the Russian President. Rogue Ales & Spirits of Newport, OR brewed a Double IPA (ABV 8.4%) called F*#K PUTIN. The one-pint cans were adorned with the colors of the Ukrainian flag, with all the profits going to the Global Giving’s Ukraine Crisis Relief Fund. Intuition Ale Works of Jacksonville, FL brewed a Belgian-style Tripel (ABV 8%) which it named Hey Putin, Go F*ck Yourself!. Intuition’s beer was brewed as part of a larger global initiative called “Brew for Ukraine“. The money raised by breweries participating in the Brew for Ukraine project supports aid agencies assisting Ukraine refugees displaced by the war.
F*#C Putin, brewed by Rogue Brewing of Newport, OR
Hey Putin, Go F*ck Yourself!, brewed by Intuition Ale Works of Jacksonville, FL
In 2018, the small Finnish craft brewery, Rock Paper Scissors Brewing, produced a beer to coincide with a 2018 meeting between Presidents Trump and Putin in Helsinki, Finland. The beer was called “Let’s Settle This Like Adults”. The beer’s label, which had cartoon versions of Trump and Putin fist-bumping, included the tagline “Making Lager Great Again”. The brewery sent samples of the beer to both the US and Russian Embassies in Helsinki.
Let’s Settle This Like Adults was brewed to coincide with a 2018 meeting between Presidents Trump and Putin in Helsinki , Finland
Politics can be a divisive topic of conversation. Americans are warned not to raise political issues over the dinner table at family gatherings such as Thanksgiving and Christmas. Maybe we should try to take our cue from Rock Paper Scissors Brewing and start to behave like adults when it comes to engaging in political dialog with family and friends (and strangers).
