Category Archives: International

Guinness and the Student’s t-test

Well, that’s another St. Patrick’s Day behind us. I am not really a green beer person, and don’t care much for corned beef (although I am partial to cabbage). So, I usually don’t participate in the celebrations that occur on the famous saint’s feast day. This year, however, I did make a presentation on St. Patrick and the history of Guinness as part of the monthly Pint Talk series at one of my local breweries, Quenched and Tempered.

Speaking about St. Patrick and the history of Gunnesss at Quenched & Tempered Brewing Company (Photo Credit: Beth Schlemper)

As I was preparing my talk, my oldest daughter sent me a text asking if I knew that the student t-test was developed by an employee of Guinness. My daughter is a nurse and is working on her Master of Science degree in Nursing at Ohio University. In one of her classes, the instructor was covering some basic statistical techniques. This is where the student’s t-test came up. I responded to her text, telling her that I was indeed familiar with both the test itself and the fact that it had been developed by a Guinness employee, and that both would be mentioned in my presentation.

William Sealy Gosset was born in Canterbury, England in 1876. As a student at Oxford University, Gosset studied mathematics and chemistry. Soon after graduating from Oxford, in 1899, Gosset joined the Guinness brewery in Dublin, Ireland, as a master brewer and experimental scientist. As it was to turn out, all of Gosset’s working days (1899-1937) were spent as a Guinness employee. When he joined Guinness, it was the largest brewery in the world, producing close to 1.2 million barrels of beer. And it was on a growth trajectory. By 1914, it was producing almost 2.4 million barrels.

William Sealy Gosset

The arrival of Gosset at Guinness signaled something of a scientific revolution for the Irish brewery – from that day forward, scientific rigor would underpin all of the brewery’s activities. As noted by Stephen T. Ziliak, “all factors of production, from barley breeding to taste testing” would be “controlled, improved, and confirmed by experimental science”. A degree in science from Oxford or Cambridge would be required of anyone hoping to become a Guinness brewer. By applying scientific principles to brewing, Guinness hoped to improve both the quality and consistency of its beer, while minimizing production costs. One observer likens being a brewer at Guinness in the early 1900s to “being a computer scientist at Bell Labs in the 1970s or an artificial intelligence researcher at Google today“.

Quality and consistency of the final product was highly dependent upon the quality and consistency of the barley and hops used in the brewing process. In the case of hops, Guinness’ traditional method of choosing which to use was based on looks and/or fragrance – a highly unreliable technique. A more reliable method would have been knowledge of the degree of soft resins in the hops. This was problematic, however. The vicissitudes of agriculture meant that there could be considerable variation in the soft resin content of hops, both from field to field and year to year.

Measuring the soft resin content in every hop cone was not feasible. By 1886, Guinness was using ~5 million pounds of hops. An alternative was to take a sample of hops and measure their soft resin content. But this raised some important questions? For example, how many hop cones did you have to sample? And how could you tell if your samples were representative of the larger batch of hops you were considering using in the brewing process. This was one of the tasks to which Gosset set his mind. In 1906 Guinness granted Gosset a sabbatical to work on this problem, so he spent a year at the Biometrics Laboratory of mathematician Karl Pearson at University College London.

Gosset was particularly interested in the problem of small samples. In other words, by measuring the soft resin content of a small sample of hops, can you infer that the entire crop has an acceptable soft resin content? Up until that point, all methods for extrapolating from a sample relied on having at least 30 observations. It was during his year at Pearson’s laboratory that Gosset figured out how characteristics of larger populations could be inferred from a very small number of samples. In his initial work he did not focus on hops. but malt extract. By taking just four samples of malt extract Gosset found that he could be sure with more than 92% certainty that the “degrees saccharine” of the extract was within 0.5 degrees of the required amount which was 133 degrees.

In 1908 Goset published the results of his research in the journal Biometrika. He did so under the pseudonym “Student”. While Guinness was happy for Gosset to share his work, they preferred that competitors not know for whom the author worked and the manner in which the brewery was applying his research. Indeed, Gosset used the same pseudonym in 19 of the 21 scientific papers he published.

As a result of Gosset using the pseudonym in his paper, the statistical technique that he presented became known as Student’s t-test. Today the Student t-test is taught in every introductory statistics course in the world (I don’t know that for sure, but I can’t imagine an introductory statistic’s course without it).

It is also widely used by both academic and non-academic researchers. For example, in medical research it can be used to compare the effectiveness of two drugs (or a placebo and a drug) in a clinical trial, while Psychologists might use it to assess the impact of therapy on an individual (before and after therapy scenarios). A manufacturer may use it to assess whether average customer satisfaction rating for a new product differs significantly from a pre-determined benchmark.

In a letter published in the Pakistan Journal of Medical Sciences, Younis Skaij described the Student’s t-test as the ‘bread and butter” of statistical analysis. Writing in the Scientific American, Jack Murtagh, called the Student’s t-test as “one of the most important statistical techniques in all of science“. As Gosset’s research was published under the pseudonym of Student, he probably does not get the recognition he deserves among the scientific community. But next time you raise a glass of Guinness to your lips, give a thought to this “gentleman scientist“.

Further Reading:

Ziliak, Stephen T. 2008. Guinnessometrics: The economic
foundation of “Student’s” t
. Journal of Economic Perspectives, Volume 22, Issue 4, Pages 199–216.

2024 Year in Review

Between 2017 and 2021, at the end of each year, I posted a blog entry documenting all the breweries I had visited during the calendar year. Included was one photograph from each brewery. In 2022, I did not post such an entry. I can’t quite remember why this was the case. However, I also failed to make an end-of- year posting in 2023. Anyway, 2024 is almost over and I thought I’d get back into the habit of documenting the breweries I visited.

During 2024, I visited a total of forty-five breweries. Before going any further, I should define what I am counting as a brewery. Any establishment owned by a brewery, whether beer is brewed on-site or not, is included in my list. For example, Inside The Five Brewing Company has three locations in northwest Ohio. At only one of those locations is beer brewed. However, all three locations are included in the list of breweries I visited in 2024.

Of the forty-five breweries I visited in 2024, eighteen were in my home state of Ohio, seventeen were located elsewhere in the United States, and ten were outside of the United States. Of the seventeen breweries I visited elsewhere in the United States, four were in the neighboring state of Michigan. Toledo, where I live, is located just south of the Ohio/Michigan border, so visits to Michigan breweries are fairly routine. Trips to California, Indiana, Nevada, and Pennsylvania afforded me the opportunity to visit breweries in those states. In terms of breweries outside of the United States, two trips to Canada, as well as trips to Armenia and Slovakia, meant that I visited more non-US breweries than I normally do.

Of the forty-five breweries I visited, sixteen were repeat visits. This meant there were twenty-nine breweries that I visited for the first time (indicated in bold font in the list below).

I hope you enjoy the photographs below. I wish every one a Happy New Year and hope that 2025 is a wonderful year for you.

OHIO (18)

  • 60CC Brewing, Toledo, OH
    Arlyn’s Good Beer, Bowling Green, OH
  • Brewing Green, Bowling Green, OH
  • Earnest Brew Works, Toledo, OH (Downtown Location)
  • Earnest Brew Works, Toledo, OH (Westgate Location)
  • Great Lakes Brewing Co., Cleveland, OH
  • HEAVY Beer Co., Toledo, OH
  • Inside the Five Brewing Co., Perrysburg, OH
  • Inside the Five Brewing Co., Sylvania, OH
  • Inside the Five Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
  • Juniper Brewing Co., Bowling Green, OH
  • Maumee Bay Brewing Company, Toledo, OH
  • Oncore Brewing, Swanton, OH
  • Patron Saints Brewery, Toledo, OH
  • Quenched and Tempered Brewing Company, Toledo, OH
  • Twin Oast Brewing, Port Clinton, OH
  • Upside Brewing, Sylvania, OH
  • Wild Side Brewing Company, Toledo, OH

REST OF UNITED STATES (17)

  • Ballast Point Brewing Company, San Diego, CA (Little Italy Location)
  • Blake’s Brewing Company, Almont, MI
  • Blake’s Brewing Company, Armada, MI
  • Brewery Saint X, New Orleans, LA
  • Chicago Brewing Company, Las Vegas, NV
  • Crescent City Brewhouse, New Orleans, LA
  • Evil Czech Brewery and Public House, Mishakawa, IN
  • GOAL. Brewing, San Diego, CA
  • Gordon Biersch Brewery, Romulus, MI (Airport Location)
  • Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant , Phoenixville, PA
  • Jolly Pumpkin, Romulus, MI (Airport Location)
    Red Hook Brewery, Salt Lake City, UT (Airport Location)
  • Triple 7 Restaurant and Brewery, Las Vegas, NV
  • Stone Brewing, San Diego, CA (Airport Location)
  • Sun King Brewery, Mishakawa, IN
    TapRoom Beer Co., San Diego, CA (Pacific Beach Location)
  • Seek Beer Co., San Diego, CA

INTERNATIONAL (10)

  • 379 Torch & Brew, Yerevan, Armenia
  • Banded Goose Brewing Company, Kingsville, ON, Canada
  • Dargett Brewpub, Yerevan, Armenia
  • Fairweather Brewing Company, Hamilton, ON
  • Grain & Grit Beer Co., Hamilton, ON, Canada
  • Hostinec Brewery, Košice, Slovakia
  • Shawn & Ed Brewing Company, Hamilton, ON, Canada
  • The Beerded Dog, Harrow, ON, Canada
  • The Grove Brewing Company, Kinsgville, ON, Canada
  • The George Hamilton Restaurant & Brewery, Hamilton, ON, Canada
379 Torch & Brew, Yerevan, Armenia
60CC Brewing, Toledo, OH
Arlyn’s Good Beer, Bowling Green, OH
Ballast Point Brewing Company, San Diego, CA (Little Italy Location)
Banded Goose Brewing Company, Kingsville, ON
Blake’s Brewing Co., Almont, MI
Blake’s Brewing Co., Armada, MI
Brewery Saint X, New Orleans, LA
Brewing Green, Bowling Green, OH
Chicago Brewing Company, Las Vegas, NV
Crescent City Brewhouse, New Orleans, LA
Dargett Brewpub, Yerevan, Armenia
Earnest Brew Works, Toledo, OH (Downtown Location)
Earnest Brew Works, Toledo, OH (Westgate Location)
Evil Czech Brewery and Public House, Mishakawa, IN
Fairweather Brewing Company, Hamilton, ON, Canada
GOAL. Brewing, San Diego, CA
Gordon Biersch Brewimg, Romulus, MI (Airport Location)
Grain & Grit Beer Co., Hamilton, ON, Canada
Great Lakes Brewing Co., Cleveland, OH
Hosintec Brewery, Košice, Slovakia
Inside The Five Brewing Co., Perrysburg OH
Inside The Five Brewing, Sylvania, OH
Inside The Five Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant, Phoenixville, PA
Jolly Pumpkin, Romulus, MI (Airport Location))
Juniper Brewing Co., Bowling Green, OH
Maumee Bay Brewing Co., Toledo, OH
Oncore Brewing, Swanton, OH
Patron Saints Brewery, Toledo, OH
Quenched and Tempered Brewing Company,Toledo, OH
Red Rock Brewery, Salt Lake City, UT (Airport Location)
Seek Beer Co., San Diego, CA
Shawn & Ed Brewing Company, Hamilton, ON, Canada
Stone Brewing, San Diego, CA (Airport Location)
Sun King Brewery, Mishakawa, IN
TapRoom Beer Co., San Diego, CA (Pacific Beach Location)
The Beerded Dog Brewing Co., Harrow, ON
The Grove Brewing Company, Kingsville, ON, Canada
Triple 7 Restaurant and Brewery, Las Vegas, NV
Twin Oast Brewing, Port Clinton, OH
The George Hamilton Restaurant & Brewery, Hamilton, ON, Canada
Upside Brewing, Sylvania, OH
Wild Side Brewing Company, Toledo, OH

Four Days in Armenia

I recently returned from a four day visit to Yerevan, the capital city of Armenia. I was there as one of the keynote speakers at a conference on “The Transformative Economy: Digital Technology, Spatial Disparities and Quality of Life”, The conference was one of a number of events celebrating the 90th anniversary of the Faculty of Economics and Management at Yerevan State University.

For those of you unfamiliar with Armenia, it is a landlocked country, which shares borders with Georgia to the north, Türkiye to the west, Azerbaijan to the east, and Iran to the south. While it considers itself to be part of Europe, from a geographic perspective an argument can be made that it is part of Western Asia. While Armenia has a long and interesting geopolitical history, most recently it was part of the USSR, from which it gained independence in 1991. It is a relatively small country, with a population of ~3 million, a third of which live in Yerevan.

Armenia’s Geographic Location (Source: BBC.com)

Armenian beer traces its roots at least as far back as the 4th century BC. It was then that it is mentioned in the travel diary of the ancient Greek mercenary, Xenophon. Traveling through eastern Anatolia, Xenephon makes mention of Armenians enjoying a tasty, but potent, drink he called “barley wine”. As was fairly common during this period, beer was served in a large bowl and consumed communally using straws.

In the late 19th century, when Armenia was part of the Russian Empire, beer was brewed in both Alexandrapol and Yerevan. The former was later renamed Gyumri and today is Armenia’s second largest city. In 1926, by which time, Armenia was part of the USSR, the last Armenian brewery was closed.

Beer production would not return to Armenia until the 1950s. As alcoholism was a significant problem in the USSR, the Russians prohibited the import of foreign beer, most of which was of higher quality than that brewed locally. As a result, according to Karine Vann, writing in The Smithsonian, “a network of subversive beer drinkers emerged, gathering in Soviet Armenia’s watering holes. The good stuff [such as imported Czech Lager] was possible to find – for the right price – if you had the right acquaintances.”

Today, Armenia, like many other countries in the region, has a small, but dynamic craft brewing industry. During my recent visit, I had the opportunity to visit two of the country’s craft breweries.

On a sunny Monday afternoon, I walked the twenty minutes from my hotel, to 379 Torch and Brew Restaurant which is owned and operated by 379 Brewing Company. Opened in 2021, the restaurant is located in the heart of Yerevan. The restaurant has a delightful courtyard where I spent a wonderful couple of hours enjoying some of 379’s beers.

The courtyard at 379 Torch and Brew Restaurant

As is common in many European craft breweries 379 had a relatively small number of beers available – an American Wheat Ale, a Weizen, a Pilsner, a Dunkel, and a Barley Wine. I tried three of the five beers on offer – American Wheat Ale, Weizen, and Pilsner. I thoroughly enjoyed them all. If you are ever in Yerevan, 379 Torch and Brew is a delightful place to kick back and relax for a couple of hours

Details about four of 379’s beer were available on this creative menu
I enjoyed this American Wheat Ale at 379 Torch and Brew

The second craft brewery I had the opportunity to visit while in Yerevan was Dargett Brewery. My visit to Dargett was somewhat more formal than it had been to 379 Torch and Brew. As part of the evening events associated with the conference, I had agreed to make a short presentation on the globalization and fragmentation trends that had been sweeping through and changing the face of the global brewing industry since the mid-1980s. So, I spoke about the consolidation that had been taking place among the global behemoths such as AB InBev and SAB Miller at the same time as the craft beer segment was gaining an increasing share of the beer market in a growing number of countries. After my brief presentation, Inna Khostikyan, Executive Director of Dargett Brewery spoke about Dargett and its emergence as a major player in the Armenian craft beer market.

Discussing changes in the global brewing industry at Dargett Brewery
Inna Khostikyan, Executive Director of Dargett Brewpub tells the audience about Dargett Brewery

Established in 2016, Dargett is the first modern-day Armenian craft brewery. Its mission is simple – “to bring unfiltered and unpasteurized beer to the consumer and keep it fresh.” Founded by two brothers, Aren and Hovhannes Durgarian, Dargett is both an innovator and a leader. For example, it was the first Armenian brewery to produce an IPA, the first to make cider (using Armenian apples), and the first to produce a fruit beer.

The fruit beer was an Apricot Ale, made with local apricots. Archaeological evidence suggests that apricots have been grown in Armenia for at least six thousand years. Today, Armenia is one of world’s leading apricot producers, and the fruit is popular among locals and tourists alike. For many, the apricot is a symbol of Armenia. As I was chatting with Inna Khostikyan after my presentation, she asked me if I would like a glass of the brewery’s Apricot Ale. I said yes of course, and have to say it was outstanding.

Apricot Ale brewed by Dargett Brewery

This was my first visit to Armenia. It was a short, but highly enjoyable, one. Since my first overseas trip (to Malta) when I was sixteen years old, I have always enjoyed international travel. Seeing new places and learning about different cultures have always fascinated me. In recent years, my travel has become, I believe, more enjoyable because of my interest in craft beer. Visiting craft breweries in countries such as Armenia, Italy, Slovakia, and Japan has expanded my appreciation of the industry. I look forward to more international travel in 2025 and the opportunity to visit more breweries.

Pivovar Hostinec

Earlier this year, I spent a week in the city of Košice in Slovakia. I was there participating in a week-long Summer Institute at the Technical University of Košice. The participants in the Summer Institute were faculty from nine countries and doctoral students from five countries. The event was described as a week-long bootcamp in which participants would explore, discuss, and debate “the X-factor of a city” – the X-factor being those characteristics and features of a city that contribute to it being high performing and making it a wonderful place to live and work.

Among other responsibilities, my participation in the event included giving an hour-long presentation on a topic of relevance to the bootcamp’s theme. My particular presentation focused on the role and importance of Third Places in the modern city. For those of you unfamiliar with the concept of Third Places, they are, to quote the urban sociologist Ray Oldenburg, “nothing more than informal public gathering places”. Much of my own research on the craft brewing industry has examined how craft breweries function as neighborhood Third Places in towns and cities across America. You can read some of my thoughts on craft breweries as Third Places here, here, and here. While my presentation included some discussion of the role of American craft breweries and British community pubs as Third Places, much of it focused on the concept of Third Places more broadly.

Getting ready to talk about Third Places at the Technical University of Košice

If you are unfamiliar with the city of Košice, it is the second largest city in the country and the largest city (population ~240,000) in eastern Slovakia. Dating back to the 13th century, the city has a long and fascinating history. At various times during its history, it was part of the Kingdom of Hungary, the Principality of Transylvania, the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and Czechoslovakia. Since the break-up of Czechoslovakia in 1993, it has been part of the Slovak Republic.

On the second to last evening of the bootcamp we had a farewell gathering. And guess what – this was held in a brewery. Pivovar Hostinec (Hostinec Brewery) was established in 2015 by Peter Škripko. It is housed in a building that dates to the second half of the 15th century. Originally a private residence, it was purchased by the city of Košice in 1569 and run as an inn. In 1617, a section of the building was leased and converted into a printing house; the first printing house in Kosice. Records indicate that part of the building was used as a brewery (the first in Košice) in 1604. The building was also the venue for the wedding festivities of Gabriel Bethlen, the Prince of Transylvania, and Catherine of Brandenburg in 1626. The marriage established an alliance between the Protestant Prince of Transylvania and the Protestant powers of Denmark and Sweden. This is certainly a building with a long and rich history. But that’s enough history. Let’s talk about beer.

Knowing my interest in craft brewing, the conference organizers asked me if I would be willing to collaborate with the brewery owner, Peter Škripko, and host a short but educational and fun presentation to kick-off the evening’s proceedings. Peter and I had a Zoom call and devised a plan of action. I would give a short presentation on the history of the craft brewing movement, after which he would provide an overview of the history of the brewery. Following that, Peter would lead the attendees through a tasting of four of the brewery’s beers.

Talking about the origins of the craft brewing movement at Hostinec Brewery
Peter led our group through a tasting of some of his brewery’s beers

Like many European craft breweries, Pivovar Hostinec, has a relatively small number of different beers on tap at any given time. Unlike many American craft breweries, which might have over a dozen different beers on tap, Pivovar Hostinec usually has six. The formal beer tasting was followed by a tour (and more tasting) of one of the brewery’s cellars where the fermentation tanks are housed. Not surprisingly, the evening was a roaring success, much of which was due to Peter’s vibrant and generous personality (and copious amounts of beer).

The evening finished with a tour of the cellars where Hostinec’s beer is brewed
Our group enjoyed the opportunity to tour Hostinec’s production space while sampling more beers

As I noted at the beginning of this blog entry, the aim of the week was to identify those characteristics and features of a city that contribute to it being high performing and making it a wonderful place to live and work. As the evening wound down, there were few of us who did not appreciate the role that Peter Škripko and Pivovar Hostinec play in enhancing the quality of life in the city of Košice.

The Generosity of Peter Škripko

Craft brewers are incredibly generous people. This generosity is manifest in a myriad of ways. As an example, take their efforts in support of charitable initiatives. While the data are rather dated, in 2016, American craft breweries donated an astonishing $73.4 million to charities. Many of these dollars benefited organizations in their own communities and, by extension, local residents. In 2019, 95 craft breweries in the state of Minnesota who responded to a survey, reported contributing $874,310 to 3,000 community and charitable organizations.

In the 10+ years I have been studying the craft brewing industry I have also found craft brewers very generous of their time when I have asked them for an interview or tour of their brewery. This does not surprise me. Craft brewers are passionate about their profession and are very happy to make the time to share that passion with you.

Recently I experienced an unprecedented example of craft brewer generosity. I was in the city of Košice in Slovakia to participate in a Summer Institute at the Technical University of Košice (TUKE). Prior to my visit my friend and colleague, Oto Hudec (who is on the faculty at TUKE) had connected me with Peter Škripko, the owner of Pivovar Hostinec, one of two breweries in the city. Peter offered to give me a tour of both his brewery and the city, including a visit to some of his favorite craft beer bars.

Peter and I had arranged to meet after lunch on a Wednesday afternoon. During lunch, Oto got a telephone call from Peter, asking if I would be comfortable touring the city by bike rather than by foot. This would allow Peter to provide me with a geographically more expansive tour of the city. When Oto asked me about the possibility of touring by bike, I must admit that I hesitated. You see, I had not ridden a bicycle since I was teenager, over 40 years ago. Despite my hesitation, I agreed to undertake the tour by bike. After all, riding a bike must be just like “riding a bike” – if I had done it before, I could surely do it again.

Peter picked me up in his car outside the restaurant where I had lunch and drove me to his brewery. Her fixed me up with one of the brewery’s bikes and after some adjustment to the saddle we were ready to go.

Bike tour of Košice with Peter Škripko
My first time riding a bike in over 40 years

As with many European cities I have visited, Košice is bike-friendly, with ample bike paths. Peter proved to be a fantastic tour guide. This was the city of his birth, and he knew a great deal about its history. He also knew the best places to get a craft beer, and we had numerous refreshment stops during our 8km+ ride.

We made several stops for beer during our bike tour of Košice

Our penultimate stop before arriving back at the brewery was Camelot Restaurant, also owned by Peter. At Camelot, under Peter’s watchful eye, I had the opportunity at trying my hand at pouring (tapping) some Pilsner Urquell. Pilsner Urquell, of course, is famous as being the original pilsner beer, having been first brewed by brewmaster Josef Groll in 1842 in the city of  Plzeň in the Czech Republic.

Peter knows a thing or two about Pilsner Urquell. In 2011, he won the national competition to become Slovakia’s Pilsner Urquell Master Bartender. The competition tested not only Peter’s ability to pour and serve a glass of Pilsner Urquell, but also his ability to communicate effectively with customers, and his knowledge of the history of the famous beer. Winning the national competition made Peter eligible to represent Slovakia in the international bartender competition, where he placed an impressive third.

In 2011, Peter became Slovakia’s Pilsner Urquell Master Bartender. This poster in Camelot highlights this achievement

There are three ways in which Pilsner Urquell can be served – Hladinka, Šnyt, and Mlíko. The standard pour is the Hladinka, which has “three fingers” of foam atop the lager. The Šnyt (pronounced ‘shnit’), is two parts beer, three parts foam and one part empty space at the top of the glass. The Mlíko is a glass of foam, with just a small amount of beer at the bottom. Each pour type is created to pair with different foods. The Hladinka pairs well with rich foods like duck, theŠnyt with hearty food like goulash or a burger, and the Mlíko with dessert.

The three ways in which Pilsner Urquell can be served – Hladinka (left), Šnyt (center), and Mlíko (right). Photo source: PilsnerUrquell.com.

Peter and his bartenders demonstrated the different pours to me and then gave me the opportunity to try my hand. You can judge how successful I was by the video posted here

Enjoying the fruits of my labor with two of Camelot’s wonderful bar staff
Enjoying another Pilsner Urquell with Peter

The following day I met up with Peter again, this time at his brewery. We were going on another tour. This time it was on foot, however, and involved going no further than the cellars of the brewery where Hostinec’s fermentation tanks are housed. Once there, I spent a glorious couple of hours with Peter talking about our common passion for the liquid nectar, while sampling at least a dozen different beers straight from the fermentation tanks.

The day after our bike tour, Peter gave me a tour (and a taste) of his production space
One of the dozen or so beers I sampled while touring Peter’s production space

As I said in my introduction to this blog entry, craft brewers are generally very generous individuals. But Peter Škripko took that generosity to a whole new level when he spent a significant chunk of time with me on my visit to Košice. Thank you, Peter, for being such a generous host.

Four Days in Uzbekistan


Last month I spent four days in Uzbekistan. I went there to attend a conference on Sustainable Regional Development in Central Asia. Our host was the Samarkand Branch of Tashkent State University of Economics, located in the city of Samarkand.

I must admit that when I received the invitation to be one of the keynote speakers at the conference, my knowledge of Uzbekistan was close to non-existent. I knew that it had once been part of the USSR, and had become an independent country in 1991 following the political break up of the Soviet Union. Apart from that, I did not know much.

When your knowledge is sparse, the internet is your friend. A quick Google search revealed that Uzbekistan is a country of 35 million people in Central Asia. It shares a border with five countries – Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, and Afghanistan. It is also one of only two countries in the world that is double landlocked (the other is Liechtenstein -which I visited in 2018) A landlocked country is one that does not have direct access to an ocean or has a waterway that directly connects it to an ocean. A double landlocked country is one that is surrounded by countries that are themselves landlocked.

Uzbekistan is one of two countries in the world that is double landlocked

Occupied as early as the 8th century BC, the region that comprises modern-day Uzbekistan came under Russian control during the 18th century. The country’s name translates as ‘land of the Uzbeks’. Indeed, Uzbeks (a Turkic ethnic group native to Central Asia) comprise 84% of Uzbekistan’s population. With such an interesting history, and the fact that I had never been to Central Asia, meant that I was really looking forward to visiting this fascinating country.

My journey to Uzbekistan was quite a long one. I flew with Jet Blue from Detroit, MI to Boston, MA, where I connected with a Turkish Airlines flight to Istanbul. In Istanbul, I met up with my colleagues, Tomaz from Portugal, Ana from Spain, and Eduardo and Fernando from Brazil. We were on the same flight from Istanbul to Samarkand. I had left Detroit at 3:28pm on May 2 and, thanks to the combination of long flights and lengthy layovers, did not arrive in Samarkand until 4:10am on May 4 – a total travel time in excess of 27 hours. This was the first time in my life I had taken two back-to-back overnight flights (Boston to Istanbul and Istanbul to Samarkand). Arriving in Samarkand was not the end of my journey, however. The five of us, along with another colleague, Hans from Sweden (who had arrived the previous day) drove to city of Bukhara, a four-hour drive west of Samarkand.

Bukhara is the fifth largest city in Uzbekistan, with a population of just under 250,000. The historic center of Bukhara is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city is located on the historic Silk Road, a network of Eurasian trade routes which operated from the 2nd century BC thru the mid-15th century. Over two thousand years old, Bukhara is described by UNESCO as “the most complete example of a medieval city in Central Asia, with an urban fabric that has remained largely intact.”

The ancient city of Bukhara
Bukhara at night

After an overnight stay in Bukhara we headed back to Samarkand. With a population of ~320,000, Samarkand is Uzbekistan’s third largest city. Like Bukhara, Samarkand has a rich history. Founded around 700 BC, it is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities anywhere in the world. Invaded and destroyed by Genghis Khan and his Mongol army in 1200, it was one of the most important stops on 4,000-mile-long Silk Road.

Taking in the sights in Samarkand
Beautiful Samarkand

Although a predominantly Muslim country, alcohol is legal in Uzbekistan. Spirits (particularly vodka) accounts for ~57% of alcohol consumed by Uzbeks, reflecting the recent Russian influence on the country’s culture. Indeed, every evening at dinner, our host made sure that there was a bottle of Uzbek vodka, along with a bottle of Uzbek Cognac, on the table. Both were consumed straight – no mixers required. I usually do not drink vodka or cognac. Indeed, the last time I had consumed so much vodka was on a 2017 trip to Poland.

We had Uzbek vodka every evening with dinner
Uzbek Cognac
The conference dinners were one of the highlights of my visit to Uzbekistan

Beer accounts for approximately 34% of the alcohol consumed by Uzbeks, with wine accounting for the remaining 9%. In 2021, beer consumption per capita was a modest 7.8 liters. This compares with US per capita consumption levels that hovers around 70 liters.

The most common beer I encountered while in Uzbekistan was one called Sabrast. A European-style Pilsner, it is produced in a brewery owned by the Danish brewing giant Carlsberg in Uzbekistan’s capital city Tashkent. I also had the opportunity to try a Russian beer. At lunch, on the drive back from Bukhara to Samarkand, one of my hosts ordered a Baltika 7 for me, a Russian Pilsner-style beer, brewed under license by Carlsberg in Tashhent.

Sabrast – the most common beer I encountered in Uzbekistan
Enjoying a Sabrast beer with my friend and colleague Tomaz at a rooftop bar we discovered in Bukhara
Baltika 7, a Russian beer, with traditional Uzbek bread

While the Uzbek beer market is evolving, and craft beer is gaining in popularity among younger and more affluent beer drinkers, I never saw any while I was there. But perhaps I will on a future visit. I have had the good fortune to visit over 40 countries across 6 continents. Uzbekistan is right up there as one of the most fascinating that I have ever visited. I would love to return one day.

Defining Craft: Italians Do It Better

On the website of Amaracord, a craft brewery in the Italian town of Appechio, there is a graphic that proclaims, “Italians Do It Better“. They are, of course, referring to Italian craft beer. Whether Italian craft beer is better than that produced by craft brewers in other countries is, of course, a topic of debate. What I can say is that having visited Italy half-a-dozen times since 2013, the country does produce some excellent craft beer.

My most recent trip to Italy was just last month. I was there to visit the Gran Sasso Science Institute (GSSI) in L’Aquila where I made a presentation on craft beer at a workshop for PhD students and early career researchers. Part of my presentation addressed the issue of how craft breweries and craft beer are defined. Prior to my visit, I did quite a bit of research into the Italian craft beer industry, and discovered some interesting differences between how craft breweries and craft beer are defined in the United States and Italy respectively.

In the United States the generally accepted definition of a craft brewery is that provided by the Brewers Association (BA), a trade group representing the interests of craft brewers. According to the BA, to qualify as a craft, a brewery must meet three conditions:

  • It must be small. Annual production cannot exceed 6 million barrels (7 million hectoliters).
  • It must be independently owned. No more than 25 percent of the brewery can be owned or controlled (or equivalent economic interest) by a beverage alcohol industry member that is not itself a craft brewer.
  • It must brew beer and have a license to do so from The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB).

This is the definition that is used by most academic researchers, including myself. Its widespread acceptance and usage are also reflective of the fact that there is no legal definition of a craft brewery in the United States.

One of the shortfalls of the BA definition, in my opinion, is that while it defines a craft beer producer (i.e., a brewery), it does not define craft beer. The closest that the BA gets to defining craft beer is that it is “generally made with traditional ingredients like malted barley; interesting and sometimes non-traditional ingredients are often added for distinctiveness“. This leads me to ponder the question – can a large multinational corporation like AB InBev produce craft beer? In the absence of a definition of craft beer, this is a difficult question to answer. It is, as I will show later, an important question.

As I was to discover from my research, the question of defining a craft brewery and craft beer has been addressed by the Italian government. In 2016, Italy’s lawmakers passed legislation that defined a craft brewery as follows:

  • It must be small. Annual production cannot exceed 200,000 hectoliters (169,000 barrels).
  • It must be legally and economically independent.
  • It must be intellectually independent. A brewery cannot operate under license to use the intellectual property rights of others.
  • It must be physically separate from other breweries. Each brewery must have its own distinct production space.

In addition to the above, the 2016 legislation defined two key characteristics of the product, craft beer. To qualify as craft, beer must be both unpasteurized and non-micro-filtered.

For several reasons, the Italian definition of craft brewery and craft beer is superior to what we have in the United States, First, it is a legal definition. Second, it defines the required characteristics of both the brewery and the beer.

While some may not be particularly interested in how craft brewery and craft beer are defined, or whether they are defined at all, I would suggest that having legal definitions of these two concepts is important.

In 2020, Byron Jackson and Mario Mena Jr. filed a class action lawsuit against the brewing giant AB InBev. At the center of the lawsuit was Veza Sur Brewing Co., which is located in Miami, FL. In patronizing the Veza Sur Brewing Co., and drinking their beer, Jackson and Mena Jr. believed that they were drinking craft beer brewed by a craft brewery. Upon discovering that Veza Sur was owned by AB In Bev, they filed a class action lawsuit. As the plaintiffs’ complaint stated:

“Defendants make and sell beer under the name Veza Sur. Veza Sur pretends to be a craft beer made in Miami and with Latin roots. In reality, it is simply another one of the dozens of brands made by the largest brewer in the world, Anheuser-Busch. It has no authentic Latin roots, and is not even made in Miami. Defendants’ misrepresentations have deceived the Plaintiffs who thought they were purchasing a craft beer that was made in Miami by a small brewery”.

For purposes of full disclosure, I was retained by the legal firm (Twig, Trade, & Tribunal) representing the plaintiffs as an expert witness in this case. In August 2021, the lawsuit was dismissed by U.S. district court judge in Miami, FL. In other words, it never went to trial.

In dismissing the case, Judge Beth Bloom stated that the “Brewer’s Association’s definition of craft beer is but one definition of a term that is otherwise widely used and well known in day-to-day conversation. However, what a certain individual might determine to qualify as “craft” beer is necessarily a subjective one, depending on the individual’s tastes and interests.”

Judge Bloom’s statement was recognition of the fact that there is no legal definition of what constitutes either a craft brewery or craft beer. Of course, the definitional issue was only one aspect of this lawsuit. And so, even if there was a legal definition of craft brewery and/or craft beer in the United States, this would not have guaranteed a successful outcome for the plaintiffs. Indeed, if you read Judge Bloom’s opinion, it is unlikely that a legal definition of craft brewery and/or craft beer would have resulted in a positive outcome for the plaintiffs.

While a legal definition of craft brewery and/or craft beer may not have helped the plaintiffs in their case against AB InBev, it did get me thinking about the issue of having a legal definition of either or both of these. If a legal definition did exist, as it does in Italy, it would certainly un-muddy what are currently some very muddy waters. For example, is Shock Top, a Belgian Wheat beer brewed by Anheuser Busch, a craft beer? Can a multinational corporation produce craft beer? Is Space Dust IPA, brewed by Elysian Brewing Company a craft beer? Is Elysian a craft brewery. Elysian Brewing Company was established in 1995 in Seattle, WA by Dave Buhler, Joe Bisacca, and Dick Cantwell. In 2015, AB InBev purchased Elysian Brewing Company, with the result that the latter lost its status as a craft brewery with the Brewers Association. All the above questions, in the absence of a legal definition, are difficult to answer.

While I was at Rome Airport, waiting to board my bus to L’Aquila, I decided to have a beer. I opted for a beer called Birra ichnusa. From its label, it looks like a craft beer. It is also unfiltered. Brewed on the Italian island of Sardinia, Birra Inchusa has been around since 1912. Despite its appearance (on at least three criteria), it does not meet the Italian government’s definition of a craft beer. First, since 1986, the brewery has been owned by Heineken. Second, the brewery produces over 400,000 hectoliters of beer annually (making it too large to qualify as craft). Third, the beer is pasteurized.

I enjoyed a Birra Ichnusa at Rome Airport while waiting for my bus to L’Aquila

Whether we will ever have a legal definition of craft brewery and craft beer in the United States, I have no idea. If we did it would certainly bring clarity to a very unclear situation.

Craft Beer: A Tourism Opportunity for an Italian Inner Area?

I just returned from a six-day trip to Italy. I was at the Gran Sasso Science Institute (GSSI) in L’Aquila where I participated in a workshop for PhD students and early career researchers in the fields of Economic Geography and Regional Science. This was my fourth visit to L’Aquila since 2017. Located a two-hour bus-ride east of Rome, L’Aquila is a city of just under 72,000 people. It made international news in 2009 when it was hit with a 6.3 magnitude earthquake, whose epicenter was just outside the city; an earthquake that was responsible for 308 deaths.

In addition to the workshop, I was also invited to participate in a local food and beer festival in Lecce nei Marsi. Located just over an hour drive southeast of L’Aquila, Lecce ne Marsi is a small community of just over 1,600 people. Lecce ne Marsi is located in what the Italian Government has designated as an Inner Area. Inner Areas are parts of Italy that, because of their geographic isolation, have limited access to essential public services such as health care, education, and transportation. They are areas that are suffering from the out migration of younger people, resulting in an ageing population. An estimated 22% of the Italian population live in Inner Areas. In response to the challenges facing Inner Areas, the Italian Government, in 2012, developed the National Strategy for Inner Areas (Strategia Nazionale per le Aree Interne). Known by the acronym SNAI, the goal is to “counteract marginalisation and demographic decline” of these areas. One of the ways in which the SNAI tries to do this is through the protection and promotion of the natural and cultural assets of Inner Areas.

Lecce nei MarsI (indicated by the B on the map) is just over an hour drive from L’Aquila (indictaed by the A on the map)
Welcome to Lecce nei Marsi

In an effort to promote its cultural assets, as well as those of twelve surrounding communities, Lecce nei Marsi decided to organize and host a festival promoting local food and local beer. Prior to its start, the Mayor of Lecce nei Marsi, Augusto Barile, held a short two-hour mini conference titled “Typical Products: The Strength of the Internal Area”. As the festival coincided with my visit to L’Aquila, Mayor Barile invited me to give a short presentation on craft beer. The mayor’s interest in craft beer was driven by the fact that a nearby micro-brewery, Beer Park Brewery, produced a beer whose ingredients include locally-harvested faggiola. Translated into English, faggiola are beechnuts (the fruit of the beech tree). The mayor was particularly interested to learn about beer tourism and how it could be used as part of a broader culinary tourism initiative to boost the local economy. Other presenters at the mini conference included Alessandra Faggian, my colleague from GSSI, the President of the national park within which Lecce ne Marsi is located, local elected officials, and even the local priest (who recognized the importance of economic development to the region). The audience were local residents and the mayors of the twelve surrounding communities. It was a standing-room only audience in the town’s small council chambers. The event was promoted as a Alogastronomia Festival. Alogastronomia was a neologism created in 2015 by the organizers of a local food and beer festival in the town of Appechio, Italy, from “merging of two words: ale, a kind of fermented beer, and gastronomy, . . . the art of regulating the stomach.” As such, it indicates a particular relationship between beer and food.

Promotional materials for the local food and beer festival in Lecce ne Marsi
It was a standing-room only crowd in the small council chambers of Lecce nei Marsi
Talking about the Italian craft beer revolution in Lecce ne Marsi (with the assistance of my wonderful translator Concetta)

Beer tourism is an increasingly popular activity. This is particularly the case in the United States, where the craft brewing industry is more developed than most other countries. However, the potential for beer tourism in Europe is, in my opinion, also significant. Indeed, there are already a number of travel companies who offer packaged vacations focused on visiting breweries and tasting beer in a variety of European countries, including Belgium, Germany, the United Kingdom, and yes, Italy. These tours tend to focus on larger cities such as Prague, Brussels, and Rome. This leads to the question – can small, geographically isolated communities, such as Lecce nei Marsi capitalize on the growing interest in traveling to taste beer? I believe that they can. However, it will require significant coordination and collaboration on the part of local communities. Attracting people to visit geographically isolated places such as Lecce ne Marsi will also require that non-beer assets be promoted. This may include local food, sites of historical significance, and events and festivals like the one that I attended.

The good news is that there is already an existing organization, the National Association of Beer Cities (Città della Birra Associazione Nazionale), that can perhaps be a source of advice and also used for promotional and branding purposes. Established in 2015, and headquartered in the small town of Appechio (also located in an Italian Inner Area), the goal of the association is to promote beer tourism. As of now, most of the breweries participating in association activities are located in the Marche region of Italy. However, as it is a national association it should be open to assisting breweries in other regions of Italy. Beer and food tourism cannot solve all of the socio-economic challenges facing communities like Lecce nei Marsi. However, they do represent one opportunity that such communities should consider. Indeed, the aforementioned Appechio perhaps offers a model for what is possible for places like Lecce nei Marsi. Appechio has had an annual Alogastrnomia Festival since 2015, whivh has evolved into a three-day event that attracts over 4,000 visitors. Apecchio has also done an excellent job of promoting the region’s other assets such as outdoor activities (biking, hiking, horseback riding etc.). And they have a very impressive website which promotes the region’s assets.

The goal of the National Association of Beer Cities is to promote beer tourism

By the time the mini conference had wrapped up, the food and beer festival was well underway. Each of the thirteen communities had stands offering a food that was typical of their particular place. Baked lamb, frogs’ legs, olive oil, truffles, and ricotta cheese were some of the culinary delights on offer. When it comes to food, I am not particularly adventurous, but I did take the opportunity provided by the festival to taste frogs’ legs for the first time.

Lecce ne Marsi provided a beautiful setting for a local food and beer festival
I had the opportunity to sample local frogs’ legs
My colleague Alessandra sampling some locally produced olive oil
Gioia Dei Marsi was one of thirteen towns participating in the local food and beer festival

While the food was wonderful, I was most interested in sampling the local beer, especially the one made with the local faggiola (beech nuts). Moricento, is an English Brown Ale, and is named after the nearby beech forests from which the beech nuts were harvested. Not only did I get to taste the beer, but I also got to meet both the owner of the brewery, Marco D’Aurelio, and brewer, Luca Fusè. The opportunity to meet both brewery owners and brewers is one aspect of the craft brewing industry that I really enjoy and appreciate. To be able to shake the hand and chat with those responsible for producing the beer that you are drinking is a true privilege.

The ingredients of Moricento beer include beech nuts harvested from local beech trees
With Marco D’Aurelio, owner of Beer Park Brewery
Sampling Moricento beer with brewer Luca Fusè (far right)

This was the first local food and beer festival in Lecce nei Marsi. The plan is to make this an annual event. It will be interesting to see how this event evolves in future years, and what other initiatives Lecce nei Marsi and its neighboring communities develop in their efforts to improve the socio-economic environment of both them and their neighbors.

Further Reading:

Pezzi, Maria Giulia. 2017. From peripheral hamlet to craft beer capital: Apecchio and the ‘Alogastronomia. Italian Journal of Planning and Practice, Volume 7, Issue 1, Pages 154-185.

Guinness: Brewed in America

A few weeks ago, I travelled to Maryland. The reason for my trip was to attend a memorial service for my step-Father-in-Law, who had passed away unexpectedly earlier this year. My wife and drove to Maryland on a Thursday. As we were picking up my oldest daughter, who was flying in from Cincnnati, OH the next morning, we stayed at a hotel right next to BWI Airport.

In preparation for the trip, I googled breweries near to where we would be staying. I was pleased to discover that Thursday night’s hotel was only a couple of miles from the recently opened Guinness Brewery. Opened in 2018, it was the first Guinness brewery to operate in the United States since the last one closed in 1954. That brewery was near New York City and had been opened primarily to quench the thirst of soldiers returning from World War II. Guinness had figured American soldiers who had served in Europe would have a craving for the stout they’d tasted overseas. It appears that Guinness had overestimated consumer interest in their product and the brewery closed in 1954 due to lack of demand.

I had visited the Guinness Storehouse (immersive experience) in Dublin, Ireland in 2015, so I was keen to visit the Baltimore brewery. The brewery is not actually located in the city of Baltimore, but rather in nearby Halethorpe, about 10 miles southwest of downtown Baltimore.

Before visiting the brewery, I had dinner at a well-known chain restaurant next to our hotel. As it was the evening before St. Patrick’s Day, I decided to have a Guinness Stout. When my bottle of Guinness arrived, I noticed that it was brewed in Dublin. I had hoped that it would have been brewed at the nearby brewery, but as I was to later discover later the iconic brew is not produced at the Baltimore facility.

In an interview with NPR, Peter Simson (head brewer at Guinness’s Dublin brewery) stated “I think Guinness stout is such an iconic stout, it has such strong links back to Dublin and back to Ireland, that it would feel wrong to take it away from Ireland and to brew it over here”.

Some of the beer’s available at the Guinness Brewery in Baltimore

While not brewing Guinness Stout, the Baltimore brewery does brew an impressive range of other beers. These included a Blonde Ale, a Honey Ale, and several IPAs and Stouts. On my visit I opted for their Galaxy IPA (brewed with Australian Galaxy hops) and a brew from their Hop Exploration Series, a French IPA (brewed with French malt and hops).

Exploration and discovery are very much part of the brewery’s modus operandi. The brewery has a 10-barrel pilot system, which is used for smaller experimental batches. As noted on the brewery’s website, “We focus our attention on putting our spin on classic styles, introducing new ones, and utilizing both historic and new age ingredients and processes to create an exciting, ever-changing beer program”. A 100-hectoliter brewing system allows the brewery to produce larger batches of selected beers for off-site distribution. This is the second pilot initiative started by Guinness. In 2015, they opened the Guiness Open Gate Brewery, in close proximity to their main brewery in Dublin, where you can sample “experimental beers you won’t find anywhere else”. In producing experimental beers that you can only taste on-site, Guinness is functioning in similar fashion to a craft brewery.

Guinness is no longer a stand-alone company. In 1997, it merged with Grand Metropolitan, a leisure, manufacturing and property conglomerate headquartered in the United Kingdom, to form a new company called Diageo. Diageo spent $90 million to convert the historic Calvert distillery (1933-2015) into the present-day Baltimore brewery.

Diageo spent $90 million to convert a distillery into the Guinness Brewery

As you enter the grounds of the brewery, there is a sign that says “Welcome to the only Guinness brewery in the USA”. While true, that sign will soon need to be removed. In the summer of this year, Gunness will open its second brewery, which will be housed in a former Pennsylvania Railroad Terminal building in Chicago, Il. From available media reports, it appears that the Chicago facility will not be as large as that in Baltimore. It will have a small pilot brewery, which will produce small batch and experimental brews. It will also have a taproom, restaurant, and outdoor patio space.

The Baltimore brewery is a multi-level facility. From what I could tell, brewing is done on the ground level, with the taproom and gift shop on the second floor. The taproom is spacious and the staff attentive. The gift shop has all the usual items you might expect – t-shirts, ball caps, refrigerator magnets, etc. The brewery also offers a number of tours and experiences, including a barrel-aged tasting experience and a guided tour of their pilot brewery.

Entrance to the Guinness Brewery in Baltimore
Inside the Guinness taproom in Baltimore

Just as I was about to post this blog entry, a friend texted me a link to a news story that Guinness was going to close part of its Baltimore production facility. Seventy-nine workers will be laid off. On the positive note, the taproom, restaurant, and the pilot brewery will stay open, thus retaining approximately 100 jobs. A spokesman for the company said, “After careful consideration and analysis of our supply footprint, we have made the difficult decision to permanently close our manufacturing facility” in Baltimore. Furthermore, “in order to ensure long term sustainable growth for Diageo, we are optimizing our existing operations across North America to meet evolving consumer preferences.” The two most interesting phrases from that statement are “supply footprint” and “evolving consumer preferences”. The flagship beer of the Baltimore brewery is Baltimore Blonde. Baltimore Blonde has been brewed in Baltimore since the opening of the Guinness facility. The brew has been around since 2014, however. Back then it was called Guinness Blonde and was brewed in Latrobe, PA. It may not be doing as well in the marketplace as Guinness had hoped. The owner of a Baltimore liquor store noted that Baltimore Blonde is not a top seller. On the popular beer rating site Untappd, it has a rating of 3.56, which is below 3.71, the average Untappd rating found by one study. So perhaps the brewery was not selling enough of its flagship beer to justify a dedicated brewing facility. Although Baltimore Blonde will no longer be brewing Baltimore Blonde, local economic development agents are keen to make sure that its producton remains in Baltimore. Continued production of the Lager will likely be sub-contracted to another brewery, with Baltimore’s Heavy Seas brewery being mentioned as a possibility. While the downscaling of production at Guinness’s Baltimore brewery may leave a bad taste in the mouth of local economic development officials, keeping production local might soothe some of their disappointment.

Guinness: Brewed in America

Beer in the “City of Peace”

In October, I spent 4 days in Osnabrück, Germany. I was there attending the annual conference of the International Geographical Union’s Commission on the Dynamics of Economic Spaces. I flew into Frankfurt – there is a direct flight from Detroit – and then took the train to Osnabrück. It was a 3.5-hour train journey from Frankfurt Airport to Osnabrück.

Osnabrück, with a population of just over 168,000 is in Lower Saxony. Historically, it is famous for being one of the cities (the other being Münster) where the Peace of Westphalia was negotiated, thus ending the Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). As a result of its part in these negotiations, the city adopted the title Friedensstadt (“City of Peace”). The city was heavily bombed during the Second World War, requiring large parts of it to be rebuilt. Today, Osnabrück is a welcoming and vibrant city, and a great place to spend a couple of days.

Inside Osnabrück City Hall where the Peace of Westphalia was negotiated

I arrived in Osnabrück in the afternoon before the start of the conference and thought that this would be an ideal time to visit the city’s only brewery – Hausbrauerei Rampendahl. The brewery was one of the few buildings in Osnabrück to avoid damage during the Second World War.

Hausebrauerei Rampendahl
Hausebrauerei Rampendahl

Like most German breweries, the beers at Rampendahl are brewed in accordance with the German Purity Law (the Reinheitsgebot) of 1516. This means that all of Rampendahl beers contain only four ingredients – water, barley, hops, and yeast. On the evening that I visited, three different beers were available – a Dunkel Lager, a Weizen (Wheat), and a Helles Lager. Needless to say, I tried all three. Having only three of the brewery’s beers to choose from was something of a different experience from the vast choice that is available at most American craft breweries that I visit. I am not sure if such a limited range of beer styles is common in German breweries, or if this was simply an exception. Perhaps one of my readers with knowledge of German breweries can answer this question for me. As I write this entry, on its website the brewery lists four beers that it has available – Rampendahl Special, Rampendahl Hell, Rampendahl Wheat, and Rampendahl Maibock.

Dunkel Lager
Weizen
Helles Lager

The brewery’s website has a short history of the brewery. The translation from German to English is such that it is difficult to clearly identify brewery’s back story. It appears that it may have once been a townhouse. The date of the building’s construction is not listed, but at least part of the building dates to 1177. Assuming this to be correct, the date at which it became a brewery is not provided. The brewery got its name from a group of disgruntled citizens, who called themselves the Rampendahl Society. Rampendahl was the owner a local restaurant where the Society met to discuss their grievances over beer and wine. In 1430, the Society led an uprising against Osnabruck’s elite (wealthy merchants). The nature of their grievances is not specified, but the uprising failed, and its leaders executed.

As I noted above, I was in Osnabrück to attend a conference. As part of the conference, we had dinner in a venue called Lagerhalle. The literal translation of “Lagerhalle” is “Warehouse”. Lager, of course is one of the two main types of beer (the other being Ale). The word Lager is a German word, which means “to store“. Lager can take between 4 and 8 weeks to produce, during which time it has to be stored (a stage in the brewing process called lagering) at the appropriate temperature. The Lagerhalle, where we had dinner is a community cultural venue and event space which puts on a wide variety of programing, including cinema, theatre, cabaret, lectures etc. Housed in a former hardware warehouse. the use of Lagerhalle as a community center dates from the mid-1970s and was a response to the youth center movement that swept Germany at that time.

Lagerhalle in Osnabrück

Finally, during one of my walks through the streets of Osnabrück, I came across Bierstraße (Beer Street). Given Germany’s love of beer (its citizens consume over 90 gallons per capita per year) it should not be surprising to see a street in a small German city thus named.

Bierstraße in Osnabrück