In October, I spent 4 days in Osnabrück, Germany. I was there attending the annual conference of the International Geographical Union’s Commission on the Dynamics of Economic Spaces. I flew into Frankfurt – there is a direct flight from Detroit – and then took the train to Osnabrück. It was a 3.5-hour train journey from Frankfurt Airport to Osnabrück.
Osnabrück, with a population of just over 168,000 is in Lower Saxony. Historically, it is famous for being one of the cities (the other being Münster) where the Peace of Westphalia was negotiated, thus ending the Thirty Years’ War (1618–1648). As a result of its part in these negotiations, the city adopted the title Friedensstadt (“City of Peace”). The city was heavily bombed during the Second World War, requiring large parts of it to be rebuilt. Today, Osnabrück is a welcoming and vibrant city, and a great place to spend a couple of days.
I arrived in Osnabrück in the afternoon before the start of the conference and thought that this would be an ideal time to visit the city’s only brewery – Hausbrauerei Rampendahl. The brewery was one of the few buildings in Osnabrück to avoid damage during the Second World War.
Like most German breweries, the beers at Rampendahl are brewed in accordance with the German Purity Law (the Reinheitsgebot) of 1516. This means that all of Rampendahl beers contain only four ingredients – water, barley, hops, and yeast. On the evening that I visited, three different beers were available – a Dunkel Lager, a Weizen (Wheat), and a Helles Lager. Needless to say, I tried all three. Having only three of the brewery’s beers to choose from was something of a different experience from the vast choice that is available at most American craft breweries that I visit. I am not sure if such a limited range of beer styles is common in German breweries, or if this was simply an exception. Perhaps one of my readers with knowledge of German breweries can answer this question for me. As I write this entry, on its website the brewery lists four beers that it has available – Rampendahl Special, Rampendahl Hell, Rampendahl Wheat, and Rampendahl Maibock.
The brewery’s website has a short history of the brewery. The translation from German to English is such that it is difficult to clearly identify brewery’s back story. It appears that it may have once been a townhouse. The date of the building’s construction is not listed, but at least part of the building dates to 1177. Assuming this to be correct, the date at which it became a brewery is not provided. The brewery got its name from a group of disgruntled citizens, who called themselves the Rampendahl Society. Rampendahl was the owner a local restaurant where the Society met to discuss their grievances over beer and wine. In 1430, the Society led an uprising against Osnabruck’s elite (wealthy merchants). The nature of their grievances is not specified, but the uprising failed, and its leaders executed.
As I noted above, I was in Osnabrück to attend a conference. As part of the conference, we had dinner in a venue called Lagerhalle. The literal translation of “Lagerhalle” is “Warehouse”. Lager, of course is one of the two main types of beer (the other being Ale). The word Lager is a German word, which means “to store“. Lager can take between 4 and 8 weeks to produce, during which time it has to be stored (a stage in the brewing process called lagering) at the appropriate temperature. The Lagerhalle, where we had dinner is a community cultural venue and event space which puts on a wide variety of programing, including cinema, theatre, cabaret, lectures etc. Housed in a former hardware warehouse. the use of Lagerhalle as a community center dates from the mid-1970s and was a response to the youth center movement that swept Germany at that time.
Finally, during one of my walks through the streets of Osnabrück, I came across Bierstraße (Beer Street). Given Germany’s love of beer (its citizens consume over 90 gallons per capita per year) it should not be surprising to see a street in a small German city thus named.
